Take a step back in time at El Brujo to learn about Peru’s pre-Colombian cultures and civilizations. Marvel at their architectural achievements, study their artwork and learn about one of Peru’s first pre-Hispanic female rulers.
El Brujo, officially the Complejo Arqueológico El Brujo (El Brujo Archaeological Complex), dates back about 5,000 years. The site was founded by the Moche culture, but it also served as the home of other ancient civilizations, including the Waris and Incas.
Once inside the complex, visit the three pyramid temples known as huacas. At Huaca Cao Viejo, the best preserved of the temples, examine the multicolored frescoes depicting priests, warriors and sacrificed soldiers. See ceremonial patios that still have some of their original color and look at the reliefs of naked prisoners linked by rope and being led by a warrior.
Check out the remains of Huaca Prieta, the complex’s oldest temple, built around 2,500 B.C. Go to the Huaca Partida to see reliefs that portray attacking figures. Note the gashes on the temple walls, possibly caused by grave robbers and Spanish colonists.
Save some time to tour the complex’s Museo de Cao, which has displays of archeological findings related to the Moche civilization. It also houses the mummified and jewelry-clad body of the Señora de Cao. She was found in a grave beneath the Huaca Cao Viejo and is believed to be the first pre-Colombian female leader in Peru.
El Brujo is a 1-hour drive from Trujillo. Public transport options between the two places are limited. The easiest way to get here is with one of the organized tours that depart from the city. You might want to combine your sightseeing expedition with a visit to nearby Magdalena de Cao, an old Spanish town set around a pretty square.
El Brujo is open daily and there is an admission fee. If you arrive here independently, you can hire a well-informed bilingual guide at the entrance to the site.