Unique Sleeps: Le Ritz, Paris

The Ritz Paris and Royalty

Ritz: ( adjective)  luxury, princely, chic, elegant, dignified 

Paris! Just the sound of it is enchanting. Walking down her cobblestone avenues, through her arcadian parks and around her fountains, and gazing up at her great buildings with their magnificent façades, she remains true to her reputation as being built to be the most beautiful city in the world. And, as the second most visited city in the world, it may very well be that there is no limit to the number of times she can inspire and delight.

Recently the magic of Paris called.

La raison for my visit to Paris was to accept a Medal of Honour awarded for our ongoing restoration of Château de Gudanes. And ever so graciously, Expedia (like a fairy godmother with a magic wand) issued an invitation for my husband, Craig, and I to stay at the legendary Ritz Paris. These few days in Paris together were a fairytale come true.

It began in the heart of Paris – 15 Place Vendôme…

Entering through the dignified façade, and taking a few steps inside I found myself in the midst of the most magnificent royal splendour, passionately embraced in the breathtaking scent of blossom. Vases and urns of expensive fragrant flowers, placed upon gold gilded consoles and tables, perfumed the air.

Further in, lining the central vestibule, royal blue curtains draped regally behind tête-a-tête ladylike chairs, cloaked in peach and pink-petaled silk. And everywhere – on the grand staircase, and the long hallways, visitors and guests tarried, perhaps like me, half believing it to be a dream.

At la réception, checking in felt gracious and genuinely welcoming. Our daughter Jas who is now living in the UK had joined us for a couple of days in Paris for the medal ceremony. The Monsieur at the reception asked if Jas would like a bed made up in our room. I can’t recall a hotel extending the gesture of allowing a third person in a room (even with asking) – ever!  But given that we had already booked an Airbnb around the corner for Jas, and Craig and I had spent several months apart, this wasn’t likely…

With 48 staircases and 34 elevators in the hotel we chose the grand central staircase, or le escalier d’honneur, our eyes darting in all directions as we climbed to the third floor, towards what I could only describe as another freshet of splendour and gratitude. Quite unannounced we had been generously extended a complimentary upgrade to a deluxe room.

Tiered desserts, fresh fruits and a personalised letter were delicately and thoughtfully arranged upon arrival.

In this room, everything was trimmed, tasselled and textured, as if wrapped with love and tranquility. Accent shades of peach adorned the room and bathroom – the Ritz believes its softness makes it the perfect fluffy towel and dressing gown colour to accessorise the complexion.
In true fairytale style, the most perfect pair of thick, velvety, peach coloured slippers were placed delicately by the bed awaiting to be worn.

Few rooms exist in any hotel or city that are so exquisite in design, gracefulness and, one can imagine, so costly.

The next morning we took a leisurely breakfast in La Table de L’Espadon – a palace of perfect pastels where every inch is lavishly decorated and bejewelled. Leisurely, as these days, it is rare to have the time to just enjoy being together. And, why would anyone wish to hurry!

In a simple touch, hot homemade croissants wrapped in crisp white linen, along with a warm coffee, were laid out whilst we made ourselves comfortable and read the menu, mise en place.

Soon after freshly picked raspberries and strawberries cascading from tall, shimmering stemware arrived on silver trays, held firmly by black tie serveurs.

This breakfast is probably the most expensive in Paris, but this is the point where I shall stop and say –  it is a once in a lifetime experience to do.

We spent the best part of half a day getting to know the Ritz with press and communication manager Matthieu Goffard. As we explored the hotel together, he spoke with genuine loyalty and affection, as he shared not only its legendary past, but its recent restoration which had only been completed a few months earlier. And as we walked and talked, and met other personnel along the way, there was this same savoir-faire in the air. Le Directeur Général –  M. Christian A. Boyens (ever so handsome and kindhearted), les femmes de chambre, les serveurs – everyone carried themselves with the same genuine loyalty and affection for where they were working.

For four years, the Ritz was wrapped up in scaffolding and 15 Place Vendôme was an Arc de Triomphe of animation – with little white, French Kangoo work vans, their drivers driving on the horn and criss-crossing in all directions. I can recall curiously walking past the closed Hotel a couple of years ago, and remember seeing written on a small billboard, in fine French script, the words:  A Legend in Progress.

This legend began just a little more than a century ago. Its founders, César Ritz and Auguste Escoffier acquired an 18th Century townhouse with the purpose of creating the most prodigious and princely hotel. And it was avant-garde too, being the first hotel to even offer ensuite bathrooms!

Cesar Ritz Suite

Like the journeys of all heroes and heroines, the Ritz Paris encountered restoration difficulties along the way. Significant strategy and teamwork was required to embrace the uncompromising wish to retain the spirit and soul of the past. The owner, Mohamed Al-Fayed, vowed that nothing would be sold or erased. And so four years ago, in the quiet month of August, 533 chairs, 274 chandeliers and 178 clocks, and all the remaining chattels and memories of bygone eras, were carefully wrapped and archived into 124 containers for safe keeping.

Restoring a monument of this magnitude required all the finesse that France could offer.

The crème de la crème of craftspeople re-roofed, re-upholstered and re-purposed everything that was possible. As requested, ninety five percent of the original chandeliers and furniture were put back just the way they were.

Even the littlest of treasures were put back to work, including the original door keys which have been remodelled into light switches.

And in other places, the largest of treasures were built and set in stone!