Our first stop takes us back to where the storey began. Ihuatzio, "the place of the coyotes," was the first capital of the Purépecha Empire and the centre of its warriors. The Purépecha were never conquered by the Aztecs, and much of that strength was organised here. The ancient city covered about 150 hectares. Archaeologists have identified 84 structures, but only 7 have been uncovered, so most of the city still lies under the fields around you. Walk along the raised stone walkways that once connected the city, and stand in the great plaza in front of two yácata pyramids. Local tradition says the Purépecha kept their treasures here. Your guide, who studied Anthropology, explains how the yácatas differ from other pyramids of ancient Mexico, how the Purépecha understood the world, and how this first capital grew into an empire. This is the first chapter of the day: the ancient past, before the Spanish arrived.