We ride past the great torii gate of Heian Shrine — one of the largest in Japan, its vermillion almost too vivid against the trees. A quick stop for photos, then we continue.

Before we enter, we stop at a boulder carved with a haiku: “Step through this gate — and the cool breeze comes of itself.” Nanzen-ji doesn’t ask you to believe anything. It just asks you to slow down — and somehow, you do. We climb the Sanmon gate for a panoramic view over the treetops, then find the brick aqueduct — built in the Meiji era to carry water from Lake Biwa through the grounds — one of those things you don’t expect to find inside a Zen temple.

The tobi-ishi stepping stones are simpler than you’d expect — and more fun. After crossing, we find a spot on the riverbank. The loungers go up in seconds (river breeze only, no pump). Japanese sweets appear. The river keeps moving. You don’t have to.