Rough and rugged at its western end where the Catalan Pyrenees mountains soar and quietly bucolic in the east, Languedoc Roussillon offers a wealth of experiences for the visitor.
Its Mediterranean coast is dotted with long, sandy beaches and old-fashioned fishing villages. The windswept Camargue landscape emits a heady fragrance of garrigue plants and wild herbs; the mountainous Lozre region harbours more mystery, with its deep rocky gorges, forests and wild animals. Vineyards with roots planted some 2,000 years ago stretch away into the horizon. And everything is bathed in that intense light that inspired painters such as Matisse, Picasso and Braque.
Cloistered within this incredible province are some fine examples of pre-Roman to modern history, including prehistoric dolmens, Roman hill fortresses and UNESCO heritage-listed sites. Dont miss the triple-decker aqueduct Pont du Gard, or the Canal du Midi, a Renaissance engineering wonder thats flanked by gracious sequoia trees and picturesque villages. The regions cultural hubs include the lively, intellectual city of Montpellier and the artistic town of Narbonne, surrounded by vineyards.
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Also known as the Rosette Race, this centuries-old bullfighting event takes place in several villages in the Petite Camargue region in the Herault and the Gard departments. Competitors, called razeteurs, try to remove a rosette attached to the bull's head. Their challenge is to muster all the style, agility and daring they can to grab the prize as they collide with the beast.
The bull plays a starring role and is not killed in the games. However, the Rosette Race is not without its dangers. Sometimes a particularly aggressive bull will chase the razeteur right up to the barrier in a bid to get even: this is known as the coup de la barriere. Its a moment relished by dedicated fans of the bouvine the Camargue bull games and the culture they represent.
At LInsens restaurant (French for crazy), outside the recently renovated Fabre Museum in Montpellier, talented brothers Jacques and Laurent Pourcel present stunning modern French cuisine. Linger over the gastronomic menu, or buy a basketful of their sandwiches, soups, salads and desserts to go.
At Alexandre in Garons, chef Michel Kayser proves hes worth two Michelin stars with simple, modern and generously presented Mediterranean fare. Alternatively, take your palate a little further back in time. Serving simple, bold dishes in the dramatic surrounds of a 14th century castle, La Rtisserie at the Villerouge-Termens Castle in Aude does a magnificent job of recreating dishes from the Middle Ages.
Languedoc-Roussillon offers a range of experiences rich in regional flavour. At Collioure in the Pyrnes-Orientales department, explore the regions pretty coastline along the Fauvism Trail, which revisits scenes made famous by 20th century maverick painters Henri Matisse and Andr Derain.
Or plan your visit around the nautical jousting tournaments that take place each summer on the canals of Ste. Dressed in white, the jousters face each other across the water, recalling a Middle Ages duel begun as a ritualised battle between married men and youths. You can also experience the canals in more indulgent style, aboard a luxury yacht or canal barge, and explore the dreamy countryside at your own pace.
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