Within San Francisco it's easy to get around by foot, bus, cable car, or taxi. You'll need a car to get to Marin County, the Wine Country, and beyond.

The San Francisco Street and Transit map is a useful map and guide to the city's extensive transportation system. You can buy it at most bookstores and at the San Francisco Visitors Center in Hallidie Plaza at Powell and Market streets.

San Francisco's famous hills present a big challenge for bike riders, but you'll still see plenty of residents riding throughout the city. The Embarcadero, Marina Green, and Golden Gate Park are popular cycling areas.

Bike rentals are available from:

Adventure Bicycle Co. (PHONE: 415/771-8735 or 888/544-2453). Vision Cyclery (PHONE: 415/221-9766).

Several ferry lines run out of San Francisco. Blue and Gold Fleet operates a number of lines, including a Bay cruise, service to Alcatraz and Angel Island, and ferries to Sausalito and Tiburon. Tickets for the Bay cruise can be purchased at Pier 39; all other tickets are sold at Pier 41. Golden Gate Ferry runs seven days a week to and from Sausalito and Larkspur, leaving from behind the San Francisco Ferry Building on the Embarcadero. The Oakland/Alameda Ferry operates seven days a week between Alameda's Main Street Ferry Building and Oakland's Jack London Square and San Francisco's Pier 39 and the Ferry Building; some ferries only go to Pier 39, so ask when you board. Tickets may be purchased on board.

Blue and Gold Fleet (PHONE: 415/705-5555) operates a a Bay cruise, tours to Alcatraz, and ferries to Angel Island, Sausalito, Tiburon, and other points. Tickets for the Bay cruise can be purchased at Pier 39; all other tickets are sold at Pier 41.

Golden Gate Ferry (PHONE: 415/923-2000) runs seven days a week to and from Sausalito and Larkspur, leaving from behind the San Francisco Ferry Building on the Embarcadero.

The Oakland/Alameda Ferry (PHONE: 510/522-3300) operates seven days a week between Alameda's Main Street Ferry Building and Oakland's Jack London Square and San Francisco's Pier 39 and the Ferry Building; some ferries only go to Pier 39, so ask when you board. Tickets may be purchased on board.

BART

You can use Bay Area Rapid Transit (BART) (PHONE: 650/992-2278) trains to reach Oakland, Berkeley, Concord, Richmond, Fremont, Martinez, and Dublin/Pleasanton. Trains also travel south from San Francisco as far as Daly City and Colma. Fares range from $1.10 to $4.70; trains run until midnight.

CalTrain

CalTrain (PHONE: 800/660-4287, www.caltrain.com) connects San Francisco to Palo Alto, San Jose, Santa Clara, and many smaller cities en route. In San Francisco, trains leave from the main depot at 4th and King streets, and a rail-side stop at 22nd St. and Pennsylvania streets. One-way fares run $1.25-$6.75. Trips last 1-1½ hours.

Muni

The San Francisco Municipal Railway System (Muni; (PHONE: 415/673-6864, www.sfmuni.com) operates light-rail vehicles, buses, the historic streetcar line along Market Street, and the world-famous cable cars. Light rail travels along Market Street to the Mission District and Noe Valley (J line), the Ingleside district (K line), and the Sunset District (L, M, and N lines). Muni provides 24-hour service to all areas of the city.

The basic fare, cable cars excepted, is $1. Exact change is required, and dollar bills are accepted in the fare boxes. For all Muni vehicles other than cable cars, 90-minute transfers are issued free upon request at the time the fare is paid. Transfers are valid for a single ride in any direction.

One-day, three-day, and seven-day Passports allowing unlimited travel on all Muni routes, including cable cars, can be purchased at several outlets, including the cable car ticket booth at Powell and Market streets and the Visitors Information Center downstairs in Hallidie Plaza.

Other Bus Services

AC Transit (PHONE: 510/839-2882), short for the Alameda-Contra Costa Transit District, provides bus transportation in the East Bay.

Golden Gate Transit (PHONE: 415/923-2000) provides daily bus service within Marin, Sonoma, San Francisco and Contra Costa counties.

Don't miss the sensation of moving up and down some of San Francisco's steepest hills in a clanging cable car. As it pauses, jump aboard and wedge yourself into any available space. Then just hold on!

The fare (for one direction) is $2. You can buy tickets on board (exact change is preferred) or at the kiosks at the cable car turnarounds located at Hyde and Beach streets and Powell and Market streets. You can also buy one-day unlimited-travel Passports on the cable cars; the three- and seven-day Passports are valid.

There are three lines. The Powell-Mason and the Powell-Hyde lines both begin at Powell and Market streets (near Union Square) and ride up over Nob Hill; their routes thereafter deviate and they terminate in different parts of Fisherman's Wharf. The California Street line runs east and west from Market Street near the Embarcadero to Van Ness Avenue.

Driving in San Francisco can be a challenge because of the hills, one-way streets, and traffic. Take it easy, remember to curb your wheels when parking on hills (turn wheels away from the curb when facing uphill, toward the curb when facing downhill). Do use public transportation whenever possible.

While "rush hour" is 7 to 10 in the morning and 4:30 to 6:30 in the evening, you can hit gridlock on any day at any time, especially going over the Bay Bridge and leaving or entering the city from the south. Sunday afternoon traffic can be heavy as well, especially over the bridges.

Market Street runs west from the Ferry Building to the Castro. The major east-west streets north of Market are Geary Boulevard (it's called Geary Street until Van Ness Avenue), which runs to the Pacific Ocean; Fulton Street, which begins at the back of the Opera House and continues along the north side of Golden Gate Park to Ocean Beach; and Fell Street, the left two lanes of which cut through Golden Gate Park and empty into Lincoln Boulevard. The latter continues on the park's south side to the ocean.

Among the major north-south streets are Divisadero, which becomes Castro Street at Duboce Avenue and continues past Cesar Chavez Street; Van Ness Avenue (it becomes South Van Ness Avenue a few blocks south of City Hall); and Park Presidio Boulevard, which empties into 19th Avenue.

Car Rentals

Unless you plan on making excursions into Marin County, the East Bay, the South Bay, or the Wine Country, avoid renting a car. First see how well-suited the cable cars are to this city of hills, how quickly the Muni buses and streetcars get you around every neighborhood, and how efficiently BART trains deliver you to the East Bay.

Rentals in San Francisco begin at $38 a day and $194 a week for an economy car with air-conditioning, automatic transmission, and unlimited mileage. This does not include tax on car rentals, which is 8.25%. If you dream of driving the coast with the top down, or heading out of town to ski the Sierra, consider renting a specialty vehicle. Most major agencies have a few on hand, but the locally owned SpecialtyRentals.com features them; they will also arrange for airport pick-up and drop-off.

Major Agencies

Alamo (PHONE: 800/327-9633; 020/8759-6200 in the United Kingdom).

Avis (PHONE: 800/331-1212; 800/879-2847 in Canada; 02/9353-9000 in Australia; 09/525-1982 in New Zealand).

Budget (PHONE: 800/527-0700; 0144/227-6266 in the United Kingdom).

Dollar (PHONE: 800/800-4000; 020/8897-0811 in the United Kingdom; 02/9223-1444 in Australia).

Hertz (PHONE: 800/654-3131; 800/263-0600 in Canada; 020/8897-2072 in the United Kingdom; 02/9669-2444 in Australia).

National (PHONE: 800/227-7368; 0345/222525 in the United Kingdom).

Requirements

In San Francisco you must be 21 to rent a car, and rates may be higher if you're under 25. You'll pay extra for child seats (about $5 per day), which are compulsory for children under six or who weigh less than 60 pounds, and for additional drivers (as much as $25 per day). Non-U.S. residents will need a reservation voucher, a passport, a driver's license, and a travel policy that covers each driver, in order to pick up a car.

Parking

This is a great city for walking and a terrible city for parking. On certain streets, parking is forbidden during rush hours. Look for the warning signs; illegally parked cars are towed. Downtown parking lots are often full and most are expensive. (The city-owned Sutter-Stockton, Ellis-O'Farrell, and 5th and Mission garages have the most reasonable rates in the downtown area.) Finding a spot in North Beach at night can be exceedingly difficult; try the five-level 766 Vallejo Garage. Larger hotels often have parking available, but it doesn't come cheap; many charge as much as $28 a day for the privilege.

Parking garages include:

Ellis-O'Farrell Garage (123 O'Farrell St., at Stockton St., PHONE: 415/986-4800).

Embarcadero Center Garage (1-4 Embarcadero Center, between Battery and Drumm Sts., PHONE: 800/733-6318).

5th and Mission Garage (833 Mission St., at 5th St., PHONE: 415/982-8522).

Opera Plaza Garage (601 Van Ness Ave., at Turk St., PHONE: 415/771-4776).

Pier 39 Garage (2550 Powell St., at the Embarcadero, PHONE: 415/705-5418).

Portsmouth Square Garage (733 Kearny St., at Clay St., PHONE: 415/982-6353).

766 Vallejo Garage (766 Vallejo St., at Powell St., PHONE: 415/989-4490).

Sutter-Stockton Garage (444 Stockton St., at Sutter St., PHONE: 415/982-7275).

The Wharf Garage (Fisherman's Wharf, 350 Beach St., at Taylor St., PHONE: 415/921-0226).

Rules of the Road

The use of seat belts is required in California. The speed limit on city streets is 25 mph unless posted otherwise. A right turn on a red light after stopping is legal unless posted otherwise, as is a left turn onto an adjoining one-way street. Car seats are required for children under 60 pounds or six years. Drivers found to have a blood-alcohol level higher than 0.08 are subject to arrest.

Hailing a taxi can be frustratingly difficult in some parts of the city, especially on the weekends. Popular night spots like the Mission, SOMA, North Beach, Haight, and the Castro have a lot of cabs but a lot of people, too. Midweek, and during the day, you shouldn't have a problem. In a pinch, hotel taxi stands are an option, as is calling ahead for a pick-up.

Taxis in San Francisco charge $2.50 for the first of a mile, $1.80 for each additional mile, and 40¢ per minute in stalled traffic.

Taxi companies include:

City Wide Cab (PHONE: 415/920-0700; San Francisco).

DeSoto Cab (PHONE: 415/673-1414; San Francisco).

Veteran's Taxicab (PHONE: 415/552-1300; San Francisco).

Yellow Cab (PHONE: 415/626-2345; San Francisco).

Banks & Offices

Business office hours are weekdays 9-5, although these hours can vary greatly. Banks are generally open weekdays 9-6, and some are also open for a few hours on Saturdays. Post offices are open weekdays 9-5; some branches are open for limited hours on Saturdays.

Gas Stations

Most petrol stations are open from early in the morning to late at night, and many are open 24 hours.

Museums & Sights

Most museums are open daily from 9 or 10 in the morning until 5 or 6, and are closed one day of the week (usually Mondays or Wednesdays.) Most stay open late one day of the week, and many offer free admission once a month.

Pharmacies

Most pharmacies are open weekdays 9:30-8, and weekends 9:30-5. Several pharmacy chains have 24-hour pharmacies.

Shops

Most shops are open daily from 9 AM to 6 or 8 PM, and are often open an hour or two later during the holiday season in December. Most airport shops are open daily.

Australia

(625 Market St., Suite 200, tel. 415/536-1970).

Canada

(555 Montgomery St., Suite 1288, tel. 415/834-3180, www.cdntrade.com).

New Zealand

(1 Maritime Plaza, tel. 415/399-1255).

United Kingdom

(1 Sansome St., Suite 850, tel. 415/617-1300).

Arriving in the United States

Non-U.S. residents ages 21 and older may import into the United States 200 cigarettes or 50 cigars or 2 kilograms of tobacco, 1 litre of alcohol, and gifts worth $100. Meat products, seeds, plants, and fruits are prohibited.

For additional information, contact the U.S. Customs Service (for inquiries, 1300 Pennsylvania Ave. NW, Washington, DC 20229, www.customs.gov, PHONE: 202/354-1000; for complaints, Customer Satisfaction Unit, 1300 Pennsylvania Ave. NW, Room 5.5A, Washington, DC 20229; for registration of equipment, Office of Passenger Programs, 1300 Pennsylvania Ave. NW, Room 5.4D, Washington, DC 20229, PHONE: 202/927-0530).

The U.S. electrical standard is 110 volts/60 cycles AC. Foreign visitors traveling with dual-voltage appliances will not need a converter, but they will need a plug adapter. The standard U.S. electrical outlet takes a plug of two flat pins set parallel to one another.

Ambulance (PHONE: 911).

Fire (PHONE: 911).

Police (PHONE: 911).

Hospital Emergency Rooms

Two hospitals with 24-hour emergency rooms are San Francisco General Hospital (1001 Potrero Ave., PHONE: 415/206-8111 emergency room; 415/206-8000 general information) and the Medical Center at the University of California, San Francisco (505 Parnassus Ave., at 2nd Ave., near Golden Gate Park, PHONE: 415/353-1037 emergency room; 415/476-1000 general information).

Physician Access Medical Center (26 California St., PHONE: 415/397-2881) is a drop-in clinic in the Financial District, open weekdays 7:30-4.

24-Hour Pharmacies

Several Walgreens Drug Stores have 24-hour pharmacies (498 Castro, at 18th St., PHONE: 415/861-3136; 25 Point Lobos, near 42nd Ave. and Geary St., PHONE: 415/386-0736; 3201 Divisadero St., at Lombard St., PHONE: 415/931-6417). The downtown Walgreens pharmacy (135 Powell St., near Market St., PHONE: 415/391-7222) is open weekdays 8-9, Saturday 9-5, and Sunday 10-5:30.

Every address in the United States belongs to a specific zip-code district, and each zip code has five digits. Some addresses include a second sequence of four numbers following the first five numbers, but although this speeds mail delivery for large organizations, it is not necessary to use it. Each zip-code district has at least one post office, where you can buy stamps and aerograms, send parcels, or conduct other postal business.

Occasionally you may find small stamp-dispensing machines in airports, train stations, bus terminals, large office buildings, hotel lobbies, pharmacys, or grocery stores, but don't count on it. Most Americans go to the post office to buy their stamps, and the lines can be long.

Official mailboxes are either the stout, royal blue steel bins on city sidewalks or mail chutes on the walls of post offices or in large office buildings. A schedule posted on mailboxes and mail slots should indicate when the mail is picked up.

Post Offices

Post offices are conveniently located throughout the city. Most are busiest at lunchtime and just before closing, and long lines are the norm at these times. The post office in the Macy's department store in Union Square is open on Sundays 11-5, in addition to its regular weekday hours.

Locations include:

Sutter Post Office (150 Sutter St., 94104-9991, PHONE: 415/765-1761 or 800/275-8777).

Federal Building Post Office (450 Golden Gate Ave., 94102-3400, PHONE: 415/931-1053 or 800/275-8777).

Macy's Union Square Post Office (170 O'Farrell St., 94108-9991, PHONE: 415/956-0131 or 800/275-8777).

Sending Mail Home

First-class letters (under one ounce) sent within the United States cost 37 cents; postcards are 23 cents. A one-ounce letter to Canada or Mexico takes a 60-cent stamp and a postcard 50 cents. Letters sent airmail to all other overseas destinations cost 80 cents for one ounce or less (this rate category is now called airmail letter-post, and surface mail is now called economy letter-post); airmail postcards to other overseas destinations cost 70 cents. For 70 cents, you can also buy an aerogram -- a pre-stamped sheet of lightweight blue paper that folds into its own envelope.

Receiving Mail

If you wish to receive mail while traveling in the United States, have it sent c/o General Delivery at the city's main post office (be sure to use the right zip code). It will be held there for up to 30 days. You must pick it up in person, and bring identification with you. American Express offices in the United States do not hold mail.

ATMs

ATMs are widely available throughout San Francisco.

Currency

The basic unit of U.S. currency is the dollar, which is subdivided into 100 cents. Coins are the copper penny (1 cent) and four silver coins: the nickel (5 cents), the dime (10 cents), the quarter (25 cents), and the half-dollar (50 cents). Silver $1 coins are rarely seen in circulation; a "golden" dollar coin was introduced in 2000. Paper money comes in denominations of $1, $5, $10, $20, $50, and $100. All these bills are the same size and green in color; they are distinguishable only by the dollar amount indicated on them and by pictures of various famous American people and monuments.

For the most favorable rates, change money through banks. Although fees charged for ATM transactions may be higher abroad than at home, Cirrus and Plus exchange rates are excellent, because they are based on wholesale rates offered only by major banks. You won't do as well at exchange booths in airports or rail and bus stations, in hotels, in restaurants, or in stores, although you may find their hours more convenient. To avoid lines at airport exchange booths, get a bit of local currency before you leave home.

In general, U.S. banks will not cash a personal check for you unless you have an account at that bank (it doesn't have to be at that branch). Only in major cities are large bank branches equipped to exchange foreign currencies. Therefore, it's best to rely on credit cards, cash machines, and traveler's checks to handle expenses while you're traveling.

Exchanging Money

In the United States, it is not as easy to find places to exchange currency as it is in European cities. In major international cities, such as New York and Los Angeles, currency may be exchanged at some bank branches, as well as at currency-exchange booths in airports and at foreign-currency offices such as American Express Travel Service and Thomas Cook (check local directories for addresses and phone numbers). The best strategy is to buy traveler's checks in U.S. dollars before you come to the United States; although the rates may not be as good abroad, the time saved by not having to search constantly for exchange facilities far outweighs any financial loss.

Money Orders, Funds Transfers

Any U.S. bank is equipped to accept transfers of funds from foreign banks. It helps if you can plan dates to pick up money at specific bank branches. Your home bank can supply you with a list of its correspondent banks in the United States.

If you have more time, and you have a U.S. address where you can receive mail, you can have someone send you a certified check, which you can cash at any bank, or a postal money order (for as much as $700, obtained for a fee of up to 85¢ at any U.S. post office and redeemable at any other post office). From overseas, you can have someone go to a bank to send you an international money order (also called a bank draft), which will cost a $15-$20 commission plus airmail postage. Always bring two valid pieces of identification, preferably with photos, to claim your money.

Taxes

The sales tax in San Francisco is 8.5%. The tax on hotel rooms is 14%.

Tipping

At restaurants, a 15% tip is standard for waiters; up to 20% may be expected at more expensive establishments. The same goes for taxi drivers, bartenders, and hairdressers. Coat-check operators usually expect $1; bellhops and porters should get 50¢ to $1 per bag; hotel maids in upscale hotels should get about $1 per day of your stay. A concierge typically receives a tip of $5-$10, with an additional gratuity for special services or favors.

On package tours, conductors and drivers usually get $10 per day from the group as a whole. For local sightseeing tours, you may individually tip the driver-guide $1 if he or she has been helpful or informative. Ushers in theaters do not expect tips.

Entering the United States

Visitor visas are not necessary for Canadian citizens, or for citizens of Australia and the United Kingdom who are staying fewer than 90 days. A valid passport, a return-trip ticket, and proof of financial solvency are required; you'll be asked to fill out the Visa Waiver Form, I-94W, upon entry. Travelers who plan to stay more than 90 days can apply for the appropriate visa at the United States embassy or consulates in their home country. Canadian citizens need valid identification but neither a passport nor a visa to enter the United States.

At Home

If you live in the U.K.:

U.S. Embassy Visa Information Line (PHONE: 09068/200-290 recorded visa information; 09055/444-546 operator service; both with per-minute charges) for U.S. visa information.

U.S. Embassy Visa Branch (5 Upper Grosvenor Sq., London W1A 2JB) for U.S. visa information; send a self-addressed, stamped envelope.

Contact the U.S. Consulate General (Queen's House, 14 Queen St., Belfast, Northern Ireland BT1 6EQ, PHONE: 028/9032-8239, www.usembassy.org.uk) if you live in Northern Ireland.

Contact the United States Consulate General (MLC Centre, 19-29 Martin Pl., 59th floor, Sydney, New South Wales 2000, PHONE: 02/9373-9200; 1902/941-641 fee-based visa-inquiry line, www.usis-australia.gov/index.html) if you live in Australia.

If you live in New Zealand:

Embassy of the United States (29 Fitzherbert Terr., Thorndon, Wellington, PHONE: 04/462-6000 usembassy.org.nz).

U.S. Consulate General (Citibank Bldg., 3rd floor, 23 Customs St. E, Auckland, PHONE: 09/303-2724, usembassy.org.nz).

Passport Offices

The best time to apply for a passport, or to renew your old one, is in fall or winter. Before any trip, check your passport's expiration date, and, if necessary, renew it as soon as possible.

Australian Citizens

Australian Passport Office (PHONE: 131-232; www.dfat.gov.au/passports).

Canadian Citizens

Passport Office (PHONE: 819/994-3500 or 800/567-6868; www.dfait-maeci.gc.ca/passport).

New Zealand Citizens

New Zealand Passport Office (PHONE: 04/494-0700 for information on how to apply; 04/474-8000; 0800/225-050 in New Zealand for information on applications already submitted; www.passports.govt.nz).

U.K. Citizens

London Passport Office (PHONE: 0870/521-0410; www.ukpa.gov.uk) for fees and documentation requirements and to request an emergency passport.

U.S. Citizens

National Passport Information Center (PHONE: 900/225-5674; calls are 35¢ per minute for automated service, $1.05 per minute for operator service; travel.state.gov/passport_services.html).

Public facilities are located in forest-green kiosks at Pier 39, on Market Street at Powell Street, at Castro and Market streets, and at the Civic Center. The fee to use the facilities is 25¢. Most of the public garages have rest rooms, and there are usually lobby-level facilities in large hotels.

San Francisco is generally a safe place for travelers who observe all normal precautions. First, avoid looking like a tourist. Dress inconspicuously, remove badges when leaving convention areas, and know the routes to your destination before you set out. Use common sense and steer clear of certain neighborhoods late at night. The Tenderloin, Civic Center plaza, parts of the Mission (around 14th Street, for example, or south of 24th to Army Street), and the Lower Haight should be avoided, especially if you're walking alone.

Like many larger cities, San Francisco has many homeless people. While most are no threat to the traveler, some are more aggressive and can persist in their pleas for cash until it feels like harassment. If you feel uncomfortable, don't reach for your wallet.

In addition to bus and van tours of the city, most tour companies run excursions to various Bay Area and Northern California destinations such as Marin County and the Wine Country, as well as farther-flung areas such as Monterey and Yosemite. City tours generally last 3½ hours and cost $28-$32. Golden Gate Tours offers bay cruises as well as standard city bus tours. In addition to bay cruises, Gray Line offers city tours in motor coaches and motorized cable cars ($15-$37); Great Pacific Tours conducts the city tours (starting at $37).

Tour Companies

Golden Gate Tours (PHONE: 415/788-5775).

Gray Line Tours (PHONE: 415/558-9400, www.graylinesanfrancisco.com).

Great Pacific Tour (PHONE: 415/626-4499, www.greatpacifictour.com).

Tower Tours (PHONE: 415/345-8687, www.sftowertours.com).

Walking Tours

The best way to see San Francisco is to hit the streets. The San Francisco Convention and Visitors Bureau publishes a brochure that includes self-guided walking tours of four popular neighborhoods -- Chinatown, Fisherman's Wharf, North Beach, and Union Square. Brochures are available at the San Francisco Visitors Center on the lower level of Hallidie Plaza, at Powell and Market streets. City Guides, a free service sponsored by the San Francisco Public Library, offers a variety of guided walks, including Chinatown, North Beach, Coit Tower, Pacific Heights mansions, Japantown, Haight-Ashbury, Market Street, the Palace Hotel, and downtown roof gardens and atriums. Schedules are available at the visitor center and at library branches.

Tours of various San Francisco neighborhoods generally cost $15-$40. Some tours have culinary themes: lunch and snacks are often included. Trevor Hailey leads a popular "Cruising the Castro" tour focusing on the history and development of the city's gay and lesbian community. Cookbook author Shirley Fong-Torres and her team lead a tour through Chinatown -- "Chinatown with the Wok Wiz," with stops at Chinese herbal markets and art studios. The Chinese Culture Center leads a Chinatown heritage walk and a culinary walk for groups of four or more only. "Javawalk" explores the San Francisco's historic ties to coffee while visiting a few of San Francisco's more than 300 cafés. "Victorian Home Walk" is a low-impact amble through some of the city's less traveled neighborhoods. Learn about the different styles of Victorian buildings while exploring Pacific Heights and Cow Hollow.

Tour Operators

San Francisco Convention and Visitors Bureau's Visitor Information Center (PHONE: 415/974-6900, www.sfcvb.org).

City Guides (PHONE: 415/557-4266, www.sfcityguides.org).

"Chinatown with the Wok Wiz" (PHONE: 415/981-8989, www.wokwiz.com).

Chinese Culture Center (PHONE: 415/986-1822, www.c-c-c.org).

"Javawalk" (PHONE: 415/673-9255, www.javawalk.com).

Trevor Hailey (PHONE: 415/550-8110, www.webcastro.com/castrotour).

"Victorian Home Walk" (PHONE: 415/252-9485, www.victorianwalk.com).

Most hotels and motels have no-smoking rooms; in larger establishments entire floors are reserved for nonsmokers. Most bed-and-breakfast inns do not allow smoking on the premises.

Smoking is banned in all indoor public spaces, including bars and nightclubs. Smoking is also prohibited in all restaurants and many other public places.

The country code for the United States is 1. The 415 area code is used in San Francisco and Marin County. The area code south of San Francisco on the peninsula is 650 (including the airport). San Jose and other South Bay cities use 408. Oakland and Berkeley use 510, and 925 covers the area east of the Oakland Hills, from Walnut Creek to Concord to Moraga. The area code in the Wine Country is 707.

All U.S. telephone numbers consist of 10 digits -- the three-digit area code, followed by a seven-digit local number. If you're calling a number from another area-code region, dial "1" then all 10 digits. For calls within the same local calling area, just dial the seven-digit number. A map of U.S. area codes is printed in the front of most local telephone directories.

Four special prefixes, "800," "888," "877," and "900," are not area codes but indicators of particular kinds of service. "800," "888," and "877" numbers can be dialed free from anywhere in the country -- usually they are prepaid commercial lines that make it easier for consumers to obtain information, products, or services. The "900" numbers charge you for making the call and generally offer some kind of entertainment, such as horoscope readings, sports scores, or sexually suggestive conversations. These services can be very expensive, so know what you're getting into before you dial a "900" number.

Directory & Operator Information

For assistance from an operator, dial "0". To get a local or national telephone number, dial 411; in a few places it is necessary to dial 555-1212. If you want to charge a long-distance call to the person you're calling, call collect by dialing "0" instead of "1" before the 10-digit number, and an operator will come on the line to assist you (the party you're calling, however, has the right to refuse the call).

International Calls

International calls can be direct-dialed from most phones; dial 011, followed by the country code and then the local number (the front pages of many local telephone directories include a list of overseas country codes). To have an operator assist you, dial "0" and ask for the overseas operator. The country code for Australia is 61; New Zealand, 64; and the United Kingdom, 44. To reach Canada, dial 1 + area code + number.

Long-Distance Calls

Competitive long-distance carriers make calling within the United States relatively convenient and let you avoid hotel surcharges. By dialing an 800 number, you can get connected to the long-distance company of your choice.

For details, contact AT&T (PHONE: 800/225-5288), MCI (PHONE: 800/888-8000), or Sprint (PHONE: 800/366-2255).

Public Phones

The most common pay phone in operation today is the coin-operated type. To use one, pick up the receiver, deposit your money (the minimum amount is posted on the machine, usually 50 cents), and then dial the number. An automated message will alert you to deposit more money, if needed.

Telephone-card phones, so popular elsewhere in the world, are becoming increasingly common. Grocery stores, newsstands, and other establishments sell the disposable phone cards, available in varying amounts from $5 and up. To activate the card, dial the code number and follow the instructions printed on the card.

Tourist Information

The San Francisco Convention and Visitors Bureau can mail you brochures, maps, and festivals and events listings; or try the bureau's 24-hour fax-on-demand service (tel. 800/220-5747). For information about the Wine Country, redwood groves, and northwestern California, contact the Redwood Empire Association Visitor Information Center. For $3 they'll send you a visitor's guide within five days, but if you can wait three to five weeks, they'll send it for free; or pick one up for no charge at the center or at the California Welcome Center on Pier 39. You can get information about the South Bay from the San Jose Visitor Information Center.

City

San Francisco Convention and Visitors Bureau's Visitor Information Center (Box 429097, San Francisco 94142-9097, or lower level of Hallidie Plaza, PHONE: 415/391-2000 or 415/974-6900, www.sfvisitor.org).

Metro Area

Berkeley (2015 Center St., 1st floor, Berkeley 94704, PHONE: 800/847-4823; 510/549-7040; 510/549-8710 for recorded information, www.berkeleycvb.com). Oakland (475 14th St., Oakland 94612, PHONE: 510/839-9000 or 800/262-5526, www. oaklandcvb.com). San Jose (333 W. San Carlos St., Suite 1000, San Jose 95110, PHONE: 408/295-9600 or 800/726-5673, www.sanjose.org). Santa Clara (1850 Warburton Ave., Santa Clara 95050, PHONE: 800/272-6822 or 408/244-9660, www.santaclara.org).

Wine Country

Redwood Empire Association (1925 13th Ave., Suite 103, Oakland 94606, PHONE: 510/536-8808 or 800/200-8334, FAX: 510/536-8824, www.redwoodempire.com).

State

California Division of Tourism has free visitor's information and itinerary planners (801 K St., Suite 1600, Sacramento 95814 PHONE: 916/322-2881 or 800/862-2543). Also try the California Welcome Center (Lobby Area, Great San Francisco Adventure, Pier 39, 2nd level, San Francisco 95814, PHONE: 800/862-2543 or 415/956-3493, www.gocalif.com.)

You can visit San Francisco comfortably any time of year. The climate here always feels Mediterranean and moderate -- with a foggy, sometimes chilly twist. The temperature rarely drops lower than 40°F, and anything warmer than 80°F is considered a heat wave. Be prepared for rain in winter, especially December and January. Winds off the ocean can add to the chill factor, so pack warm clothing. North, east, and south of the city, summers are warmer. Shirtsleeves and thin cottons are usually fine for the Wine Country.

The following are the normal daily temperature ranges for San Francsico:

January 46-56°F (8-13°C); February 48-60°F (9-15°C); March 49-61°F (9-16°C); April 50-63°F (10-17°C); May 51-64°F (10-17°C); June 53-66°F (11-19°C); July 54-66°F (12-19°C); August 54-66°F (12-19°C); September 56-70°F (13-21°C); October 55-69°F (13-20°C); November 51-64°F (10-18°C); December 47-57°F (8-14°C).

Holidays

National holidays are New Year's Day (Jan. 1); Martin Luther King, Jr., Day (3rd Mon. in Jan.); President's Day (3rd Mon. in Feb.); Memorial Day (last Mon. in May); Independence Day (July 4); Labor Day (1st Mon. in Sept.); Thanksgiving Day (4th Thurs. in Nov.); and Christmas Day (Dec. 25).