The stamped tin ceiling, period photographs, slow-moving fans, and tropical plants re-create a 1920s French-colonial setting for the upscale Vietnamese food. Local blue bloods come for the salt-and-pepper calamari with citrus dipping sauce; coconut-crusted crab cakes; soup of rice noodles, chicken, and Asian herbs; and wok-seared beef tenderloin. Downstairs are two large dining rooms; upstairs, at the suave lounge and verandah, you may sip a cocktail before dinner or a nightcap at the end of the evening. Reservations essential.