Traci Des Jardins, chef-owner of the renowned Jardinière, oversees the kitchen of this old-time chophouse next door to the major-league baseball park. In addition to naturally raised local meats and poultry and chophouse favorites such as creamed spinach, onion rings, and scalloped potatoes, the menu includes a first-rate raw bar. Grass-fed beef is a specialty here, and the tartare and steaks prove that cattle don't need to eat corn. The setting is suitably casual, with lots of wood; TV monitors in the bar area mean no inning is missed, but you may need to shout to be heard above the enthusiastic Giants fans. Lunch is served only when day games are played.