Owners and locations have changed many times since this old-timer opened during the gold-rush era, but the 19th-century atmosphere remains. Simple sautés are the best choices, or cioppino during crab season (October to May), Pacific halibut in season (January to May), and old-fashioned house-made tartar sauce anytime. Seating is at the counter as well as in private booths, but expect long lines for a table at lunchtime on weekdays. The crusty, white-coated waiters are a reminder of good, old-fashioned service. Reservations not accepted.