A pan-Asian menu and an adventurous drinks list -- everything from house-brewed rice beer to martinis -- draw a steady stream of hip diners to this noisy Union Street landmark. Lacquered walls, bamboo ceiling fans, and period posters create a comfortably exotic mood in keeping with the unusual but accessible food. The menu is divided into big and small plates, noodles, dumplings, and salads, and it spotlights such intriguing dishes as spicy Szechuan green beans, salt-and-pepper prawns, short ribs with Thai basil, and coconut tapioca with azuki beans. The starter of dried anchovies tossed with chilies, peanuts, garlic, and green onions is addictive. Reservations essential.