The southern French-Italian menu, created by nationally known chef Judy Rodgers, packs in an eclectic crowd until late in the evening. A balcony dining area, a rabbit warren of rooms, overlooks the long, copper bar, where a first-rate oyster selection and drinks are dispensed. The menu changes daily, but the superb whole roast chicken and Tuscan bread salad for two are always on it. The hamburger topped with Gorgonzola, served on focaccia, and accompanied with shoestring potatoes is excellent, but it's served only for lunch and late at night. Desserts are simple and satisfying and include rich house-made ice creams and a wonderful, cream-laced coffee granita. Reservations essential.