For one of the most spectacular -- and long-running -- acts in town, head down Geary Boulevard past Japantown to Kabuto A&S. Here, behind the sushi counter, master chef Sachio Kojima flashes his knives before an admiring crowd, which can't get enough of his buttery yellowfin tuna or golden sea urchin on pads of pearly rice. In addition to serving fine sushi and sashimi, the restaurant also offers small, cooked plates, in its cozy, 20-seat dining room and at the dozen-seat sushi bar. Don't overlook the excellent selection of sakes, each one rated for dryness and labeled with its place of origin.