The place can claim San Francisco's first wood-fired pizza oven, installed in the 1930s when the restaurant opened. The oven is still here, and the restaurant, with its coat hooks, boothlike dining nooks, and communal table running the length of the basement dining room, has changed little since those early days. The pizzas' delightfully chewy crusts, creamy mozzarella, and full-bodied house-made sauce have kept legions of happy customers returning for years. Pair one of these hearty pies with a salad of grilled sweet peppers or of broccoli dressed in lemon juice and olive oil.