The name of this busy 130-seat spot honors one of North Beach's most revered barkeeps, and the food celebrates the neighborhood's Ligurian roots. An assortment of antipasti -- roasted peppers, house-cured fish, fava beans spiked with pecorino shards -- and pizzas from the wood-burning oven are favorites, as are the cioppino and fresh fish of the day served in various ways. A big bar area opens onto the sidewalk, and an exhibition kitchen lets you keep an eye on your order.