The kitchen applies many French and contemporary California touches to the sophisticated Italian fare at this intimate restaurant, the domain of chef Keith Luce and his wife, Raney, who runs the front of the house. Featherlight house-made pastas, al dente risottos, crisp duck confit, chicken-liver crostini, and roast rabbit exemplify the dishes on the menu, which changes several times a year and is prix fixe (two, three, or four courses, $30-$42). The wine list, well matched to the food, includes some of Italy's most intriguing bottlings. Service can be uneven at times, so bring a measure of patience. Reservations essential.