An Italian-speaking staff, a small and unpretentious dining area, and irresistible aromas drifting from the open kitchen make customers who pass through the door of this modest storefront operation feel as if they've stumbled into Italy. The kitchen produces small plates of simply cooked vegetables, a few baked pastas, a roast of the day, creamy polenta, and thin-crust pizzas -- including a memorable "white" pie topped with porcini mushrooms and mozzarella. At lunch try one of the delectable focaccia sandwiches. Reservations not accepted.