The loyal clientele keeps coming for Craig Stoll's simple yet exquisite Italian fare at this hopping spot. The interior is simple, with hardwood floors, aluminum-topped tables, a tiled bar, and a casual but sophisticated ambience. The menu changes daily, but among the usual offerings are house-made mozzarella with tomatoes; grilled squid on a bed of tiny white beans; orecchiette with broccoli rabe and chickpeas; and halibut atop olives and braised fennel (in winter) or asparagus and fava beans (in spring). The profiteroles are packed with coffee ice cream and dressed with lavalike chocolate sauce. Reservations essential.