At this pleasantly down-home spot, one of North Beach's last family-style trattorias, the men at the bar still roll dice for drinks and diners sit elbow to elbow at long oilcloth-covered tables. The fare consists of bountiful, well-prepared five-course dinners -- not award winning, but a meal here doesn't break the bank. Osso buco and roast lamb are good main-dish choices. A three-course option, good for smaller appetites and the budget-minded, consists of minestrone, salad, and pasta. For a couple more bucks you can cap off dinner with an order of spumoni.