With pale walls, dark wood floors, cloth-draped tables, and a partial view of the kitchen, the dining room exudes a strong sense of restraint. The same no-nonsense quality characterizes the food. A small, regularly shifting menu delivers archetypal Italian dishes like fennel with blood oranges and red onions, farro with Bolognese sauce, gnocchi with scallops, and bistecca (steak) to rival what you find in Florence. The Italian wine list is fairly priced, and the genial service by the largely Italian staff is polished but not stiff. Reservations essential.