The inviting interior of this handsome taverna has an outsize fireplace and a lively bar. Most savvy diners start off with a trio of dips -- eggplant, yogurt and cucumber, and taramasalata (fish roe pureed with olive oil and bread crumbs) -- and then move on to such Athenian standards as moussaka, octopus salad, braised lamb shank, and grilled whole bass. A bar menu of small plates -- spanakotiropita (spinach-and-cheese phyllo triangles); pita with olives, onions, and cheese; salad -- satisfies mid-afternoon customers. Desserts such as semolina custard wrapped in phyllo and yogurt with walnuts and honey keep sweet tooths happy. Reservations essential.