Longtime San Francisco chef Gerald Hirogoyen serves an appealing French Basque menu full of the rustic dishes -- both small and large -- of his childhood. Among them are piquillo peppers (pimientos) stuffed with salt cod, pipérade (cooked peppers and tomatoes served with serrano ham and a poached egg), lamb marinated in thyme and vinegar, and grilled cod with chorizo and potatoes. To stay with the theme, try a Basque wine from the impressive list and a wedge of the traditional almond-laced Basque cake. Hirogoyen has also opened a small café and take-out operation around the corner.