Although the toque has been passed to several chefs since the death of founding chef Masa Kobayashi, the restaurant, with its chocolate-brown walls, white fabric ceiling, and red-silk-shaded lanterns, is still one of the country's most celebrated food temples. Chef Ron Siegel, famous for besting Japan's Iron Chef, is at the helm these days, and his efforts have pleased the fussiest restaurant critics. Dinners are prix fixe. Tastings menus come in 3, 6, and 9 courses, including a 6-course vegetarian option; there's also a kaiseki menu, with 10 small courses. All menus are laced with fancy ingredients and priced accordingly ($65-$150). Reservations essential. Jacket required.