This venerable institution is the quintessential French brasserie: noisy and crowded, with tasty but not so subtly prepared classics, such as garlicky pâtés, leeks vinaigrette, steak au poivre, cassoulet, grilled blood sausage with crisp french fries, and skate wing with capers. Local power brokers and, occasionally, visiting celebrities snag noontime tables. Staffers from the nearby French consulate dine here as well, giving the place an air of authenticity. A traditional zinc bar provides a good perch for people-watching.