Long a favorite of dedicated Francophiles, this small, très Parisian establishment, with its light wood and white linens, is a jewel. The surroundings are lovely, but the food is the star here, from quail and squab stuffed with wild mushrooms to poached lobster with corn-and-leek ragout and roasted rabbit on a bed of vegetables. The dishes are all artful -- almost too beautiful to eat. Such rarefied preparation and presentation are costly, however, so you may want to save this singular place for a special occasion. Reservations essential. Jacket required.