Chef Gary Danko's daily-changing menu of highly sophisticated plates has kept fans returning again and again. The cost of a meal ($58-$78) is pegged to the number of courses, from three to five. Plates may include risotto with lobster, rock shrimp, and winter vegetables; roast quail stuffed with chanterelles and foie gras; and lamb loin with potato gratin. Dessert might be a truly decadent chocolate soufflé with two sauces. The wine list is the size of a small-town phone book, and the banquette-lined room, with beautiful wood floors and stunning (but restrained) floral arrangements, is as high class as the food. Reservations essential.