The creative cooking of French chef-part owner Hubert Keller has brought every conceivable culinary award to this romantic spot. The interior's distinctive feature is its tented ceiling, 900 yards of draped and swathed fabric. The three-, four-, and five-course prix-fixe menus (each course with many choices) include dishes such as venison loin on salsify, filet mignon with braised endives and roast pears, and porcini-dusted skate wing. Grand Marnier soufflé with orange-and-cardamom ice cream is an elegant finish to an elegant meal. Reservations essential. Jacket required.