The small, simply outfitted corner restaurant, with big windows overlooking the street, has brought France to Potrero Hill. Small plates include mussels in wine, lamb chops on ratatouille, and deep-fried smelt with lemon; lamb daube, roast chicken, and shellfish stew are among the big plates. Typically Parisian desserts include crème brûlée, tarte tatin, and cherry clafouti. To accommodate the overflow of Hill residents who have packed this place almost since day one, the owners opened the tiny (and more casual) Chez Maman halfway down the block. Reservations essential.