The restaurant, a sliver of a storefront outfitted with white-linen-draped tables, bentwood chairs, and the warm glow of votive candles, delivers an imaginative French menu. Chef Charles Solomon creates savory dishes that are special but not fussy: crab-and-mango salad, pan-roasted lamb with turnips and leeks, wonderfully crisped sweetbreads with woodsy-tasting mushrooms. Desserts, including a dreamy vanilla-scented cake with house-made ice cream, are equally refined and not to be missed. Although the food soars above bistro fare, the largely local clientele helps to keep the mood casual.