The elegant, ultrasophisticated small hotel of the same name helped to put new American cooking on the local culinary map in the 1980s. Today the kitchen is in the talented hands of young, Swiss-born Daniel Humm, who prepares exquisite French fare. Dinner is prix fixe only, but you may choose three or four courses -- with numerous options for each -- or the seven-course tasting menu. The dining room, furnished with light gold banquettes, cream-color leather chairs, fine linens, and gold-and-deep-orange carpeting, is both elegant and comfortable, and the small side bar is a good spot for sipping a martini while waiting for your table. Reservations essential.