A full-length silvery mesh curtain just inside the door, ebony floors, dark-wood tables, and a small, glamorously lighted bar make RNM look like it belongs in New York's SoHo rather than in the Lower Haight. The tapas-style menu, with French, Italian, and California flavors, changes regularly, but in the cool months you may find rack of lamb served on a bed of farro or tender braised short ribs, while summertime may bring fried heirloom tomato slices stacked with fresh mozzarella. The small pizzas -- including the one with wild mushrooms, fontina, and truffle oil -- are tasty, as is the seasonal fruit tart with homemade ice cream. Prices are reasonable, but portions can be small, so plan on at least two plates per person.