Photographs of quinces line the walls of this small, elegant eatery in one of San Francisco's most fashionable neighborhoods. The address draws a crowd that's mostly well heeled but not stuffy. Michael Tusk, who has cooked at the legendary Chez Panisse and Oliveto, oversees the kitchen. The menu, which changes daily, includes such inviting dishes as pappardelle with rabbit and olives, a salad of grilled fresh sardines, pasta with wild mushrooms, duck with parsnips and quince, roast squab, and more. The wine list is top-notch but pricey. Reservations essential.