A giant among American chefs, Bradley Ogden gained fame at Campton Place and later at his Lark Creek Inn in Marin County. This huge, bustling brasserie across from the Ferry Building is his popular San Francisco outpost. The two-tier dining room, done in mustard tones, seats 170 and serves a seasonal -- and surprisingly homey -- menu that might include salmon fillet cloaked in wild mushrooms, pork shoulder with green-onion farro (a light brown grain), and fallen chocolate cake with blood-orange compote. The service is polished. The wine list includes the best California labels, and there's even a local boutique brandy to sip at meal's end. Reservations essential.