Ed Moose and his wife, Mary Etta, are well known in San Francisco and beyond, so local and national politicians and media types typically turn up at their restaurant. The regularly changing menu, the work of chef-partner Jeffrey Amber, is sophisticated without being fancy, with dishes like sautéed chicken livers with huckleberries, pumpkin ravioli, lobster risotto, and rib eye with cauliflower-potato gratin. A grown-up banana split combines banana ice cream, caramelized bananas, fudge brownie, and whipped cream. The surroundings are classic and comfortable, with views of Washington Square. There's live music at night and a fine brunch on weekends. Reservations essential.