An understated brick-and-glass exterior hides one of the city's most wine-savvy restaurants. The by-the-glass list runs pages; wines by the bottle require a hefty book. In other words, serious wine drinkers feel at home in this stylish place. The food menu is far smaller -- and nicely unfussy -- with a half dozen or so choices in each category. Starters include thin-crust pizzas and brandade (a salt-cod-based puree) with crostini; an aromatic seafood stew, seared duck breast, and roast rack of lamb with seasonal garnishes are among the satisfying main courses.