The lightly seasoned Hakka cuisine of southern China, rarely found in this country, was introduced to San Francisco at this restaurant, with such regional specialties as salt-baked chicken, braised stuffed bean curd, delicate fish balls, chicken in wine sauce, and clay pots of meats and seafood. Don't overlook the other seafood offerings here -- salt-and-pepper shrimp, smoked black cod, or stir-fried crab, for example -- or the pea sprouts stir-fried with garlic. The dim sum is arguably the finest in the city.