The name conjures up an image of a dark bar with a cigarette-smoking piano player, but the restaurant is actually as bright as a new penny. Downstairs (entrance on Kearny Street) is a no-tablecloth dining room that's packed at lunch and dinner. The classier upstairs space (entrance on Commercial Street) is a favorite stop for Chinese businessmen on expense accounts. The street-level space on Kearny is a comfortable spot to wait for a table to open. A menu with photographs helps you pick from the many wonderful, sometimes pricey, always authentic dishes -- such as salt-and-pepper Dungeness crab.