This tablecloth Cantonese restaurant has long been known as a place to enjoy such classy plates as smoked black cod and Peking duck. The kitchen is especially celebrated for its seafood, which is plucked straight from tanks; in the cool months, crab and lobster are usually priced to sell. Chefs here keep up with whatever is hot in Hong Kong eateries, so check on what's new with the generally genial waiters. Midday dim sum is available.