Cantonese chefs are known for their expertise with seafood, and the kitchen here continues that venerable tradition. Tanks filled with Dungeness crabs, black bass, abalone, catfish, shrimp, and other creatures of fresh- and saltwater occupy a corner of the main dining room, a handsome space with jade-green wainscoting and dark-wood accents. A basement dining area, though brightly lighted, is less appealing. A wall-hung menu in both Chinese and English lists the costs of selecting what can be pricey indulgences. In the wee hours Chinese night owls often drop in for a plate of noodles or a bowl of congee (rice gruel).