Don't be put off by Helmand's location on a rather scruffy block of Broadway; inside, authentic Afghan cooking is served at amazingly low prices in elegant surroundings, amid white table linens and Afghan carpets. Highlights include aushak (leek-filled ravioli served with yogurt and ground beef), pumpkin with yogurt-and-garlic sauce, and any of the lamb dishes, in particular the kebab strewn with yellow split peas and served on Afghan flat bread. Basmati rice pudding, perfumed with cardamom, is an exotic -- and satisfying -- finish.