Although most of Rome's sights are in a relatively circumscribed area, the city is too large to be seen solely on foot. Take the Metro (subway), a bus, or a taxi to the area you plan to visit, and expect to do a lot of walking once you're there. Wear a pair of comfortable, sturdy shoes to cushion the impact of the sampietrini (cobblestones). Heed our advice on security. Get away from the noise and polluted air of heavily trafficked streets by taking parallel streets whenever possible. You can get free city and transportation-route maps at municipal information booths; the transportation maps are probably more up-to-date than those you can buy at newsstands.

Rome's integrated transportation system includes buses and trams (ATAC), Metro (subway) and suburban trains and buses (COTRAL), and some other suburban trains (Trenitalia) run by the state railways. A ticket (BIT) valid for 75 minutes on any combination of buses and trams and one entrance to the Metro costs EUR0.75.

Tickets are sold at tobacconists, newsstands, some coffee bars, automatic ticket machines in Metro stations, some bus stops, and ATAC and COTRAL ticket booths (in some Metro stations and at a few main bus stops). You can buy them singly or in quantity; it's always a good idea to have a few tickets handy so you don't have to hunt for a vendor when you need one. Time-stamp your ticket when boarding the first vehicle, stamping it again when boarding for the last time within 75 minutes. You stamp the ticket at Metro turnstiles and in the little machines near the stops for buses and trams.

A BIRG tourist ticket, valid for one day (only for the day it is stamped, not 24 hours) on all public transport, costs EUR3.10. A weekly ticket (settimanale, also known as CIS) costs EUR12.40 and can be purchased only at ATAC and COTRAL booths -- there's an ATAC kiosk at the bus terminus in front of Termini station.

It's worth noting that the streets of Rome, even in the newer outskirts, are numbered erratically. Numbers can be even on one side of the street and odd on the other; sometimes numbers are in ascending consecutive order on one side of the street and descending order on the other.

This is a pleasant way to get around when traffic is light. But remember: Rome is hilly. Rental rates for standard bikes are about EUR3 for four hours to EUR20 for a full day.

There are rental concessions at the Metro stations at Piazza del Popolo and Piazza di Spagna, at Viale del Bambino on the Pincio, and at Viale della Pineta in Villa Borghese park.

Bike Rentals

Happy Rent (Via Farini 3, Rome, Italy. PHONE: 06/4818185).

I Bike Rome (underground parking lot at Villa Borghese, Via del Galoppatoio 33, Rome, Italy. PHONE: 06/3225240).

St. Peter Moto Rent (Via di Porta Castello 43, Rome, Italy. PHONE: 06/6875714 or 06/4885485, Via Fosse di Castello 7, PHONE: 06/6874909).

Not as fast as the Metro, bus travel is more scenic. With reserved bus lanes and numerous tram lines, surface transportation is surprisingly efficient, given the volume of Roman traffic. ATAC city buses and trams are orange, gray-and-red, or blue-and-orange. Remember to board at the rear and to exit at the middle; you must buy your ticket before boarding, and stamp it in a machine as soon as you enter. If you find the bus too crowded to get to the ticket machine, manually cancel the ticket by writing on it the date and time you got on. The ticket is good for a transfer within the next 75 minutes. Buses and trams run from 5:30 AM to midnight, plus there's an extensive network of night buses throughout the city.

Smoking is not permitted on Rome buses or trams. There are smoking cars on aboveground trains.

ATAC urban buses (PHONE: 06/46951).

COTRAL & ATAC (PHONE: 800/431784).

Be extremely careful of pedestrians when driving: Romans are casual jaywalkers and pop out frequently from between parked cars.

Car Rentals

Rates in Rome begin at around $80 a day and $300 a week for an economy car with air-conditioning, a manual transmission, and unlimited mileage. This includes the 20% tax on car rentals. Note that Italian legislation now permits certain rental wholesalers, such as Auto Europe, to drop the value-added tax (V.A.T.).

All international car rental agencies in Rome have a number of locations. Call and inquire about the one closest to you.

It's usually cheaper to rent a car in advance through your local agency than to rent on location in Italy. Within Italy, local rental agencies and international ones offer similar rates.

At Home

Alamo (PHONE: 800/522-9696, www.alamo.com).

Avis (PHONE: 800/331-1084; 800/879-2847 in Canada; 0870/606-0100 in the U.K.; 02/9353-9000 in Australia; 09/526-2847 in New Zealand, www.avis.com).

Budget (PHONE: 800/527-0700; 0870/156-5656 in the U.K., www.budget.com).

Dollar (PHONE: 800/800-6000; 0124/622-0111 in the U.K.; where it's affiliated with Sixt; 02/9223-1444 in Australia, www.dollar.com).

Hertz (PHONE: 800/654-3001; 800/263-0600 in Canada; 020/8897-2072 in the U.K.; 02/9669-2444 in Australia, www.hertz.com).

National Car Rental (PHONE: 800/227-7368; 020/8680-4800 in the U.K., www.nationalcar.com).

Emergency Services

There are phone boxes on highways to report breakdowns. Major rental agencies often provide roadside assistance, so check your rental agreement if a problem arises.

Auto Club of Italy (ACI) (ACI, PHONE: 803-116) Emergency Service offers 24-hour road service. Dial 803-116 from any phone, 24 hours a day, to reach the nearest ACI service station. When speaking to ACI, ask and you will be transferred to an English-speaking operator. Be prepared to tell the operator which road you're on, the direction you're going, e.g., "verso (in the direction of) Pizzo," and the targa (license plate number) of your car.

Petrol

Only a few petrol stations are open on Sunday, and most close for a couple of hours at lunchtime and at 7 PM for the night. Many, however, have self-service pumps that accept both currency and credit cards and are operational 24 hours a day. Petrol stations on autostrade are open 24 hours.

Parking

Parking space is at a premium and your car may be towed if it's illegally parked. Parking in an area signposted zona disco is allowed for limited periods (from 30 minutes to two hours or more); if you don't have a cardboard disk to show what time you parked, you can use a piece of paper with the time noted and leave it on the dashboard. The parcometro, the Italian version of metered parking, is widespread in Rome.

Requirements

In Italy your own driver's license is acceptable. An International Driver's Permit is a good idea; it's available from the American or Canadian Automobile Association and, in the United Kingdom, from the Automobile Association or Royal Automobile Club. These international permits are universally recognized, and having one in your wallet may save you a problem with the local authorities.

In Italy you must be 21 years of age to rent an economy or subcompact car, and most companies require customers under the age of 23 to pay by credit card. Upon rental, all companies require credit cards as a warranty; to rent bigger cars (2,000 cc or more), you must often show two credit cards. Call local agents for details. There are no special restrictions on senior-citizen drivers.

Car seats are required for children under three and must be booked in advance. The cost ranges from EUR26 to EUR40 for the duration of the rental.

Road Conditions

Italians drive fast and are impatient with those who don't, a tendency that can make driving on the congested streets of Rome a hair-raising experience. Traffic is heaviest during morning and late-afternoon commuter hours, and on weekends. Watch out for mopeds.

Most bookstores such as Feltrinelli sell maps, as do most highway petrol stations. The Touring Club Italiano's shops sell maps (road, bicycle, hiking, among others). Probably the best road maps are those produced by Michelin.

Rules of the Road

Driving is on the right, as in North America. Regulations are largely as in Britain and America, except that the police have the power to levy on-the-spot fines. Although honking abounds, the use of horns is forbidden in many areas; a large sign, zona di silenzio, indicates where. Speed limits are 50 kph (31 mph) in Rome, 130 kph (80 mph) on autostrade, and 110 kph (70 mph) on state and provincial roads, unless otherwise marked. The blood-alcohol content limit for driving is 0.5 gr/, with fines up to EUR5,000 and the possibility of six months' imprisonment for surpassing the limit. Fines for speeding are uniformly stiff: 10 kph (6 mph) over the speed limit can warrant a fine of up to EUR500; over 10 kph, and your license could be taken away from you.

The Metro is the easiest and fastest way to get around Rome. There are stops near most of the main tourist attractions. The Metro has two lines -- A and B -- which intersect at Termini Station. Line A runs from the eastern part of the city, with stops, among others, at San Giovanni in Laterano, Piazza Barberini, Piazza di Spagna, Piazzale Flaminio (Piazza del Popolo), and Ottaviano/San Pietro, near the Basilica di San Pietro and the Musei Vaticani. Line B has stops near the Colosseum, the Circus Maximus, the Pyramid (Ostiense Station and trains for Ostia Antica), and the Basilica di San Paolo Fuori le Mura. The Metro opens at 5:30 AM, and the last trains leave the last station at either end at 11:30 PM (on Saturday night the last train leaves at 12:30 AM).

Smoking is not permitted on Rome buses, trams, or subway trains. There are smoking cars on aboveground trains.

As bikes are to Beijing, so mopeds are to Rome; that means they are everywhere. Riders are required to wear helmets, and traffic police are tough in enforcing this law. Producing your country's driver's license should be enough to convince most rental firms that they're not dealing with a complete beginner; but if you're unsure of exactly how to ride a moped, think twice, and at least ask the assistant for a detailed demonstration.

Rental Agencies

Auto City (Via Collina 22, Termini. PHONE: 06/42020207).

Happy Rent (Via Farini 3, Termini. PHONE: 06/4818185).

Scoot-a-Long (Via Cavour 302, Termini. PHONE: 06/6780206).

St. Peter Moto (Via di Porta Castello 43, San Pietro. PHONE: 06/6875714).

Taxis in Rome do not cruise, but if free they will stop if you flag them down. They wait at stands but can also be called by phone, in which case you're charged a supplement. The various taxi services are considered interchangeable and are referred to by their phone numbers rather than names. The one exception is Radio Taxi, which is distinctive in that it accepts American Express and Diners Club. (Specify when calling that payment will be made by credit card.)

The meter starts at EUR2.33 during the day, EUR4.91 after 10 PM, and EUR3.36 on Sundays and holidays. There's a supplement of EUR1.04 for each piece of baggage. Unfortunately, these charges do not appear on the meter, causing countless misunderstandings. If you take a taxi at night and/or on a Sunday, or if you have baggage or have had the cab called by phone, the fare will legitimately be more than the figure shown on the meter. Use only licensed, metered white or yellow cabs, identified by a numbered shield on the side, an illuminated taxi sign on the roof, and a plaque next to the license plate reading servizio pubblico. Avoid unmarked, unauthorized, unmetered gypsy cabs (numerous at Rome airports and train stations), whose drivers actively solicit your trade and may demand astronomical fares.

Taxi Companies

Cab (PHONE: 06/3875, 06/3570, 06/4994, 06/5551, or 06/8433).

Radio Taxi (PHONE: 06/3875).

Banks & Offices

Banks are open weekdays 8:30-1:30 and 2:45-3:45 or 3-4. Exchange offices are open all day, usually 8:30-8.

Post offices are open Monday-Saturday 8-2; central and main district post offices stay open until 8 or 9 PM on weekdays for some operations. You can buy stamps at tobacconists.

Gas Stations

Only a few petrol stations are open on Sunday, and most close during weekday lunch hours and at 7 PM for the night. Many, however, have self-service pumps that are operational 24 hours a day, and petrol stations on autostrade are open 24 hours.

Museums & Sights

Museum hours vary and may change with the seasons. Many important national museums are closed one day a week, often on Monday. The Roman Forum, other sites, and some museums may be open until late in the evening during the summer. Always check locally.

Most churches are open from early morning until noon or 12:30, when they close for two hours or more; they open again in the afternoon, generally around 4 PM, closing about 7 PM or later. Major cathedrals and basilicas, such as the Basilica di San Pietro, are open all day. Note that sightseeing in churches during religious rites is usually discouraged. Be sure to have 50-cent coins handy for the luce (light) machines that illuminate the works of art in the perpetual dusk of ecclesiastical interiors. A pair of binoculars will help you get a good look at painted ceilings and domes.

A tip for pilgrims and tourists keen to get a glimpse of the pope: avoid the weekly general audience on Wednesday morning in Piazza di San Pietro, and go to his Sunday angelus instead. This midday prayer service tends to be far less crowded (unless beatifications or canonizations are taking place) and is also mercifully shorter, which makes a difference when you're standing.

Pharmacies

Most pharmacies are open Monday-Saturday 8:30-1 and 4-8; some are open all night. A schedule posted outside each pharmacy indicates the nearest pharmacy open during off-hours (afternoons, through the night, and Sunday).

Shops

Shop hours are flexible, and many shops in downtown Rome are open all day during the week and also on Sunday, as are some department stores and supermarkets. Alternating city neighborhoods also have general once-a-month Sunday opening days. Otherwise, most shops throughout the city are closed on Sunday. Shops that take a lengthy lunch break are open 9:30-1 and 3:30 or 4-7 or 7:30. All shops close for one half day during the week: Monday morning in winter and Saturday afternoon in summer.

Food shops are open 8-2 and 5-7:30, some until 8, and most are closed on Sunday. They also close for one half day during the week, usually Thursday afternoon from September to June and Saturday afternoon in July and August.

Traditionally the worst days to arrive in Rome, or do anything that hasn't been preplanned, are Easter Sunday, May 1 (Labor Day), Christmas Day, and New Year's Day. Expect to find many shops and businesses closed, and only a skeleton transport system working. Ferragosto (the middle weekend of August) will also be challenging.

Arriving in Italy

Of goods obtained anywhere outside the EU or goods purchased in a duty-free shop within an EU country, the allowances are as follows: (1) 200 cigarettes or 100 cigarillos or 50 cigars or 250 grams of tobacco; (2) 2 litres of still table wine or 1 litre of spirits over 22% volume or 2 litres of spirits under 22% volume or 2 litres of fortified and sparkling wines; and (3) 50 ml of perfume and 250 ml of toilet water.

Of goods obtained (duty and tax paid) within another EU country, the allowances are (1) 800 cigarettes or 400 cigarillos (under 3 grams) or 200 cigars or 1 kilogram of tobacco; (2) 90 litres of still table wine or 10 litres of spirits over 22% volume or 20 litres of spirits under 22% volume or 110 litres of beer.

Additional customs information is available from:

Italian Customs, Fumicino Airport (Circoscrizione Dogonale Roma 2, Rome, Italy. PHONE: 06/65011555).

Italian Customs, Rome (Circoscrizione Dogonale Roma 1, Via Scalo San Lorenzo, 8, Rome, Italy. PHONE: 06/44887204).

The electrical current in Italy is 220 volts, 50 cycles alternating current (AC); wall outlets take Continental-type plugs, with two or three round prongs.

Australia

Australian Embassy (Via Alessandria 215, Rome, 00198. PHONE: 06/852721, www.australian-embassy.it).

Canada

Canadian Embassy (Via G.B. de Rossi 27, Rome, 00161. PHONE: 06/445981, www.dfait-maeci.gc.ca/canadaeuropa/italy).

New Zealand

New Zealand Embassy (Via Zara 28, Rome, 00198. PHONE: 06/4417171).

United Kingdom

British Embassy (Via XX Settembre 80A, Rome, 00187. PHONE: 06/42200001, www.britain.it).

United States

U.S. Embassy (Via Veneto 121, Rome, 00187. PHONE: 06/46741, www.usembassy.it).

Emergencies (PHONE: 113).

Police (PHONE: 113).

No matter where you are in Italy, dial 113 for all emergencies, or find somebody (your concierge, a passer-by) who will call for you, as not all 113 operators speak English; the Italian word to use to draw people's attention in an emergency is Aiuto! (Help!, pronounced ah-you-toh). Pronto soccorso means "first aid" and when said to an operator will get you an ambulanza (ambulance). If you just need a doctor, you should ask for un medico; most hotels will be able to refer you to a local doctor. Don't forget to ask the doctor for una ricevuta (an invoice) to show to your insurance company to get a reimbursement. Other useful Italian words to use in an emergency are Al fuoco! (Fire!, pronounced ahl fuh-woe-co) and Al ladro! (Follow the thief!, pronounced ahl lah-droh).

Italy has a national police force (carabinieri) as well as local police (polizia). Both are armed and have the power to arrest and investigate crimes. Always report the loss of your passport to either the carabinieri or the police, as well as to your embassy. Local traffic officers are known as vigili (though their official name is polizia municipale) -- they are responsible for, among other things, giving out parking tickets and clamping cars, so before you even consider parking the Italian way, make sure you are at least able to spot their white (in summer) or black uniforms (many are women). Should you find yourself involved in a minor car accident, you should contact the vigili. A countrywide toll-free number is used to call the carabinieri in case of emergency.

For a full listing of doctors and dentists in Rome who speak English, consult the English Yellow Pages at www.englishyellowpages.it or pick up a copy at any English-language bookstore. Your embassy will also have a recommended list of medical professionals.

Hospitals

The hospitals listed below have English-speaking doctors. Rome American Hospital is about 30 minutes by cab from the center of town.

Rome American Hospital (Via Emilio Longoni 69, Via Prenestina. PHONE: 06/22551, www.rah.it).

Salvator Mundi International Hospital (Viale delle Mura Gianicolensi 66, Trastevere. PHONE: 06/588961, www.smih.pcn.net).

Hot Lines

Crime Victims Services (PHONE: 840/002244).

Highway Police (PHONE: 06/22101).

Road Breakdown (PHONE: 116).

Women's Rights and Abuse Prevention (PHONE: 030/226363).

Pharmacies

Most pharmacies are open Monday-Saturday 8:30-1 and 4-8; some are open all night. A schedule posted outside each pharmacy indicates the nearest pharmacy open during off-hours (afternoons, through the night, and Sunday). Dial 1100 for an automated list of three open pharmacies closest to the telephone from which you call. Farmacia Internazionale Capranica, Farmacia Internazionale Barberini (open 24 hours), and Farmacia Cola di Rienzo are pharmacies that have some English-speaking staff.

Farmacia Cola di Rienzo (Via Cola di Rienzo 213, San Pietro. PHONE: 06/3243130).

Farmacia Internazionale Barberini (Piazza Barberini 49, Via Veneto. PHONE: 06/4825456).

Farmacia Internazionale Capranica (Piazza Capranica 96, Pantheon. PHONE: 06/6794680).

Late-night pharmacies (PHONE: 1100).

Italy is teeming with churches, many with significant works of art in them. Because they are places of worship, care should be taken with appropriate dress. Shorts, spaghetti straps, sleeveless garments: these are taboo at St. Peter's in Rome, and in many other churches throughout Italy. So, too, are short shorts anywhere. When touring churches -- especially in the summer when it's hot and no sleeves are desirable -- it's wise to carry a sweater, or scarf, to wrap around your shoulders before entering the church. Do not enter a church with food, and do not drink from your water bottle while inside. Do not go in if a service is in progress. And if you have a cellular phone, turn it off before entering.

Italians who are friends greet each other with a kiss, usually first on the right cheek, and then on the left. When you meet a new person, shake hands.

Business Etiquette

Showing up on time for business appointments is expected in Italy, especially in Milan. Business is done more over lunch than dinner. Business cards are used throughout Italy, and business suits are the norm for both men and women.

Orientation Tours

American Express, Appian Line, Carrani, CIT, and other operators offer three-hour tours in air-conditioned 60-passenger buses with English-speaking guides. There are four itineraries: "Ancient Rome" (including the Roman Forum and Colosseum); "Classic Rome" (including the Basilica di San Pietro, Fontana di Trevi, and the Janiculum Hill); "Christian Rome" (including some major churches and the catacombs); and "The Vatican Museums and Sistine Chapel." Most cost between EUR31 and EUR50, but the Musei Vaticani tour costs about EUR43. American Express tours depart from Piazza di Spagna and CIT from Piazza della Repubblica, both with some hotel pickups; Carrani and Appian Line pick you up at centrally located hotels.

American Express and other operators can provide a luxury car for up to three people, a limousine for up to seven, or a minibus for up to nine, all with English-speaking driver, but guide service is extra. Almost all operators offer "Rome by Night" tours, with or without dinner and entertainment. You can book tours through travel agents.

Though operators and names change, a sightseeing bus following a continuous circle route through the center of town is usually operating. "Stop-'n'-go" is one. It makes scheduled stops at important sites, where you can get on and off at will. Check with the Rome tourist information kiosks or inquire at your hotel for the name of the current operators and schedules.

The least expensive organized sightseeing tour of Rome is that run by ATAC (PHONE: 800/431784 toll-free), the municipal bus company. Bus 110 tours leave from Piazza dei Cinquecento, in front of Termini Station, last about three hours, and cost about EUR7.75. The driver provides a commentary, and you're given an illustrated guide with which to identify the sights. Buy tickets at the ATAC information booth in front of Termini Station. There is at least one tour daily, departing at 2:30 PM (3:30 in summer).

Even less expensive are the sightseeing "tours" of Rome that can be had from certain buses and trams that pass major sights. With a single EUR0.75 ticket you can get in 75 minutes of sightseeing (or an entire day, with a EUR3.10 giornaliero ticket). Time your ride to avoid rush hours. The little electric Bus 116 scoots through the heart of Old Rome, with stops near the Pantheon, the Spanish Steps, and Piazza del Popolo, among others. The route of Bus 117 takes in San Giovanni in Laterano, the Colosseum, and the Spanish Steps.

Since the pedestrianization of many parts of the city, and restrictions on buses by the municipality, many companies no longer provide bus tours as such but tours in taxis, which are a little more intimate and can negotiate the traffic better. Taxi tours can cost EUR20-EUR50, depending on length.

Tour Operators

American Express (PHONE: 06/67641).

Appian Line (PHONE: 06/487861).

Carrani (PHONE: 06/4880510).

CIT (PHONE: 06/4620311).

Stop-'n'-go City Tours (PHONE: 06/48905729).

Special-Interest Tours

You can make your own arrangements (at no cost) to attend a public papal audience at the Vatican or at the pope's summer residence at Castel Gandolfo. You can also book through a travel agency for a package that includes coach transportation to the Vatican for the audience and some sightseeing along the way, returning you to your hotel, for about EUR21. The excursion outside Rome to Castel Gandolfo on summer Sundays for the pope's blessing costs about EUR25. Agencies that arrange these tours include Appian Line, Carrani, and CIT:

Appian Line (PHONE: 06/487861).

Carrani (PHONE: 06/4880510).

CIT (PHONE: 06/4620311).

Tourvisa Italia (PHONE: 06/4463481) organizes boat trips on the Tiber, leaving from Ripa Grande, at Ponte Sublicio. From May to October, they include excursions to Ostia Antica, with a guided visit of the excavations and return by bus. In winter months, the company will organize an Ostia excursion for very large groups only.

To experience a Roman kitchen, contact Carla Lionello (PHONE: 06/69920435, mc2036@mclink.it), who offers private, half-day cooking workshops. You create a four-course meal while discussing the techniques and traditions involved.

Walking Tours

All About Rome, American Express, Enjoy Rome, Scala Reale, Through Eternity, and Walks of Rome offer walking tours of the city and its sights. Genti e Paesi is an Italian cultural association that offers walking tours and museum visits in English. Book at least one day in advance. If you have a reasonable knowledge of Italian, you can take advantage of the free guided visits and walking tours organized by Rome's cultural associations and the city council for museums and monuments. These usually take place on weekends. Programs are announced in the daily papers and in weekly magazine roma c'è.

Tour Operators

All About Rome (PHONE: 06/7100823, allaboutromewalks@yahoo.com).

American Express (PHONE: 06/67641).

Enjoy Rome (Via Marghera 8A, Termini. PHONE: 06/4451843).

Genti e Paesi (Via Adda 111, Rome, Italy. PHONE: 06/85301755).

Scala Reale (Via dell'Olmata 30, Termini, 00184. PHONE: 06/4745673 or 800/732-2863 Ext. 4052, www.scalareale.org).

Through Eternity (PHONE: 06/7009336, www.througheternity.com).

Walks of Rome (Via Urbana 38, Quirinale, 00184. PHONE: 06/484853).

Excursions

Most operators offer half-day excursions to Tivoli to see the fountains and gardens of Villa D'Este.

The Appian Line (PHONE: 06/487861) morning tour to Tivoli also includes a visit to Hadrian's Villa, with its impressive ancient ruins. Most operators also have full-day excursions to Assisi, to Pompeii and/or Capri, and to Florence.

Personal Guides

You can arrange for a personal guide through American Express, CIT, or the main EPT (Ente Per Turismo) Tourist Information Office.

American Express (PHONE: 06/67641).

CIT (PHONE: 06/4620311).

EPT Tourist Information Office (PHONE: 06/488991 or 06/48899253).

Food & Drink

Tap water is drinkable across Rome itself, and the city is renowned for the high quality of its water that comes from plentiful underground springs. Throughout the city, in almost every square and side street, you will find drinking fountains, often labeled acqua marcia, with a little bronze or brass drinking spout pierced by a hole. The only water you should not drink is the water that gushes into ornamental fountains, which often has cleansing chemicals in it, and any fountain that has the words non potabile, meaning undrinkable, written over it.

Mad cow disease has had a significant effect on Italian dining habits. As of early 2003, one case of the disease in humans had been diagnosed in Italy, and about 90 cows had been found infected. Many Italians stopped eating beef altogether. The beloved bistecca alla fiorentina, the thick T-bone steak cut from Tuscan beef, was banned by the EU; restaurants famous for this specialty switched to grilled pork. Other traditional dishes at least temporarily unavailable included osso buco (braised veal shank), oxtail, and offal specialties prepared throughout the country. Vitello (veal), vitellone (young beef), and manzo (beef) are considered safe to eat by both the Italian government and the EU (these are cuts that don't come in touch with spinal marrow). Yet consumers tend to trust veal only. As a result, some restaurants experimented with "alternative meats" such as struzzo (ostrich) and canguro (kangaroo). Cavallo (horse meat, which is sweet and lean), buffalo (buffalo, like beef but less tender), and coniglio (rabbit) can be found at many butchers.

Over-the-Counter Remedies

It's always best to travel with your own tried and true medicines. The regulations regarding what medicines require a prescription are not likely to be the exactly the same in Italy and in your home country -- all the more reason to bring what you need with you. Aspirin (l'aspirina) can be purchased at any pharmacy, but Tylenol and Advil are unavailable.

You can always find someone who speaks at least a little English in Rome, albeit with a heavy accent. Remember that the Italian language is pronounced exactly as it is written -- many Italians try to speak English as it is written, with bewildering results. You may run into a language barrier in the countryside, but a phrase book and close attention to the Italians' astonishing use of pantomime and expressive gestures will go a long way.

Try to master a few phrases for daily use, and familiarize yourself with the terms you'll need to decipher signs and museum labels. To get the most out of museums, you'll need English-language guidebooks to exhibits; look for them in bookstores and on newsstands, as those sold at the museums are not necessarily the best.

The Italian mail system is notoriously slow. Allow up to 15 days for mail to and from the United States, Canada, Australia, and New Zealand. It takes about a week to and from the United Kingdom and within Italy.

Outgoing mail will reach its destination faster if mailed from the Vatican, with Vatican stamps. You can buy them in the post offices on either side of Piazza di San Pietro, one next to the information office and the other under the colonnade opposite. During peak tourist seasons a Vatican Post Office mobile unit is set up in Piazza di San Pietro.

Main Rome post office (Piazza San Silvestro 19, Rome, Italy. PHONE: 06/6798495).

Overnight Services

Although DHL and UPS offices are far out of the city center, FedEx has walk-in service on Via Barberini; all three companies will pick up packages from anywhere in Rome.

DHL (PHONE: 199199345).

Federal Express (Via Barberini 115, Via Veneto. PHONE: 800/123800).

UPS (PHONE: 800/877877).

Postal Rates

Airmail letters (lightweight stationery) to the United States and Canada cost EUR0.52 for the first 20 grams and an additional EUR0.26 for every additional unit of 20 grams. Airmail postcards cost EUR0.62 if the message is limited to a few words and a signature; otherwise, you pay the letter rate. Airmail letters and postcards to the United Kingdom cost EUR0.41. You can buy stamps at tobacconists.

Receiving Mail

Correspondence can be addressed to you in care of the Italian post office. Letters should be addressed to your name, "c/o Ufficio Postale Centrale," followed by "Fermo Posta" on the next line, and "00187 Rome" on the next. You can collect it at the central post office at Piazza San Silvestro by showing your passport or photo-bearing I.D. and paying a small fee. American Express also has a general-delivery service. There's no charge for cardholders, holders of American Express traveler's checks, or anyone who booked a vacation with American Express.

Shipping Parcels

Air shipping takes about two weeks, and surface anywhere up to three months. If you have purchased antiques, ceramics, or other objects, inquire to see if the vendor will do the shipping for you; in most cases, this is a possibility.

Rome's prices are comparable to those in other major capitals, such as Paris and London. Unless you dine in the swankiest places, you'll still find Rome one of the cheapest European capitals in which to eat. Clothes and leather goods are also generally less expensive than in northern Europe. Public transport is relatively cheap.

A Rome 2-km (1-mi) taxi ride costs EUR5.25. An inexpensive hotel room for two, including breakfast, is about EUR100; an inexpensive dinner for two is EUR25. A simple pasta item on the menu is about EUR8, and a ½-litre carafe of house wine EUR3.50. A McDonald's Big Mac is EUR2.80, with prices doubled if you sit down. A pint of beer in a pub is around EUR3.70.

Admission to the Musei Vaticani is EUR10. The cheapest seat at Rome's Opera House runs EUR17; a movie ticket is EUR7.50. A daily English-language newspaper is about EUR2.

ATMs

ATMs are fairly common in Rome and are the easiest way to get euros. The word for ATM in Italian is bancomat, for PIN, codice segreto. Four-digit PINs are the standard, though in some machines longer numbers will work.

Currency

The euro is the main unit of currency in Italy, as well as in 11 other European countries. Under the euro system, there are eight coins: 1, 2, 5, 10, 20, and 50 centesimi (at 100 centesimi to the euro), and 1 and 2 euros. There are seven notes: 5, 10, 20, 50, 100, 200, and 500 euros.

Taxes

Hotels

The service charge and IVA, or value-added tax (VAT), are included in the rate except in five-star deluxe hotels, where the IVA (15% on luxury hotels) may be a separate item added to the bill at departure.

Restaurants

Many, but not all, Rome restaurants have eliminated extra charges for service and for pane e coperto (a cover charge that includes bread, whether you eat it or not). If it is an extra, the service charge may be 12%-15%. Only part, if any, of this amount goes to the waiter, so an additional tip is customary.

Always ask for an itemized bill and a scontrino, or receipt. Officially you have to keep this receipt with you for 600 feet from the restaurant or store and be able to produce it if asked by the tax police. Sound absurd? It's something of a desperate measure for the country with the highest taxes in Europe and the highest levels of tax evasion/avoidance, and there have been cases of unwitting customers falling foul of the law, even though this practice is meant to catch non-compliant restaurants.

Value-Added Tax

Value-added tax (IVA in Italy, V.A.T. to English-speakers) is 20% on luxury goods, clothing, and wine. On most consumer goods, it is already included in the amount shown on the price tag; on services, such as car rentals, it is an extra item. If a store you shop in has a "Euro Tax Free" sign outside and you make a purchase above EUR155 (before tax), present your passport and request a "Tax Free Shopping Check" when paying, or at least an invoice itemizing the article(s), price(s), and the amount of tax.

To get an IVA refund when you are leaving Italy, take the goods and the invoice to the customs office at the airport or other point of departure and have the invoice stamped. (If you return to the United States or Canada directly from Italy, go through the procedure at Italian customs; if your return is, say, via Britain, take the Italian goods and invoice to British customs.) Once back home -- and within 90 days of the date of purchase -- mail the stamped invoice to the store, which will forward the IVA rebate to you.

A refund service can save you some hassle, for a fee. Global Refund (99 Main St., Suite 307, Nyack, NY, 10960, USA. PHONE: 800/566-9828, FAX: 845/348-1549, www. globalrefund.com) is a Europe-wide service with 190,000 affiliated stores and more than 700 refund counters -- located at every major airport and border crossing. Its refund form is called a Tax Free Check. The service issues refunds in the form of cash, check, or credit-card adjustment, minus a processing fee. If you don't have time to wait at the refund counter, you can mail in the form instead.

Tipping

Many Rome restaurants have done away with the service charge of about 12%-15% that used to appear as a separate item on your check -- now service is almost always included in the menu prices. It's customary to leave an additional 5%-10% tip for the waiter, depending on the quality of service. Tip checkroom attendants EUR1 per person, rest-room attendants EUR0.50. In both cases tip more in expensive hotels and restaurants. Tip EUR0.05-EUR0.10 for whatever you drink standing up at a coffee bar, EUR0.25 or more for table service in a café. At a hotel bar tip EUR1 and up for a round or two of cocktails, more in the grander hotels.

Tip taxi drivers 5%-10% of the meter amount. Railway and airport porters charge a fixed rate per bag. Tip an additional EUR0.50, more if the porter is very helpful. Not all theater ushers expect a tip; if they do, tip EUR0.25 per person, more for very expensive seats. Give a barber EUR1-EUR1.50 and a hairdresser's assistant EUR1.50-EUR4 for a shampoo or cut, depending on the type of establishment and the final bill; 5%-10% is a fair guideline.

On sightseeing tours, tip guides about EUR1.50 per person for a half-day group tour, more if they are very good. In museums and other places of interest where admission is free, a contribution is expected; give anything from EUR0.50 to EUR1 for one or two people, more if the guardian has been especially helpful. Service station attendants are tipped only for special services.

In hotels, give the portiere (concierge) about 15% of his bill for services, or EUR2.50-EUR5 if he has been generally helpful. For two people in a double room, leave the chambermaid about EUR1 per day, or about EUR4-EUR6 a week, in a moderately priced hotel; tip a minimum of EUR1 for valet or room service. Increase these amounts by one half in an expensive hotel, and double them in a very expensive hotel. In very expensive hotels, tip doormen EUR0.50 for calling a cab and EUR1 for carrying bags to the check-in desk, bellhops EUR1.50-EUR2.50 for carrying your bags to the room, and EUR2-EUR2.50 for room service.

When traveling internationally, carry your passport even if you don't need one (it's always the best form of I.D.) and make two photocopies of the data page (one for someone at home and another for you, carried separately from your passport). If you lose your passport, promptly call the nearest embassy or consulate and the local police.

Entering Italy

All U.S., Canadian, U.K., Australian, and New Zealand citizens, even infants, need only a valid passport to enter Italy for stays of up to 90 days.

Passport Offices

The best time to apply for a passport, or to renew your old one, is in fall or winter. Before any trip, check your passport's expiration date, and, if necessary, renew it as soon as possible.

Australian Citizens

Australian Passport Office (PHONE: 131-232, www.passports.gov.au).

Canadian Citizens

Passport Office (Department of Foreign Affairs and International Trade, Ottawa, Ontario, K1A 0G3. PHONE: 819/994-3500 or 800/567-6868, www.dfait-maeci.gc.ca/passport).

New Zealand Citizens

New Zealand Passport Office (PHONE: 04/474-8100 or 0800/22-5050, www.passports.govt.nz).

U.K. Citizens

London Passport Office (PHONE: 0870/521-0410, www.passport.gov.uk).

U.S. Citizens

National Passport Information Center (PHONE: 900/225-5674 calls are 35¢ per minute for automated service; $1.05 per minute for operator service, travel.state.gov/passport_services.html).

Public restrooms are rather rare in Rome. Although there are public toilets in Piazza di San Pietro, Piazza di Spagna, at the Roman Forum, and in a few other strategic locations (all with a charge of EUR0.25-EUR0.50), the locals seem to make do primarily with well-timed pit stops and rely on the local bar. Private businesses can refuse to make their toilets available to the passing public, but most bars will allow you to use the restroom if you ask politely. Alternatively, it is not uncommon to pay for a little something -- a mineral water or espresso -- to get access to the facilities.

Standards of cleanliness and comfort vary greatly. Restaurants, hotels, department stores like La Rinascente and Coin, and McDonald's restaurants tend to have the cleanest restrooms. Pubs and bars rank among the worst. In general, it is in your interest to carry tissues with you. There are bathrooms in all airports and train stations (in major train stations you'll also find well-kept pay toilets for EUR0.25-EUR0.50) and in most museums. There are also bathrooms at highway rest stops and petrol stations: a small tip to the cleaning person is always appreciated. There are no bathrooms in churches, post offices, public beaches, or subway stations.

Don't wear a money belt or a waist pack, both of which peg you as a tourist. Distribute your cash and any valuables (including your credit cards and passport) between a deep front pocket, an inside jacket or vest pocket, and a hidden money pouch. Do not reach for the money pouch once you're in public.

Wear a bag or camera slung across your body bandolier style, and don't rest your bag or camera on a table or chair at a sidewalk café or restaurant. In Rome, beware of pickpockets on buses, especially Line 64 (Termini-St. Peter's train station); the Line 40 Express, which takes a faster route and takes you closer to the basilica; and subways -- and when making your way through the corridors of crowded trains. Pickpockets may be active wherever tourists gather, including the Roman Forum, Piazza Navona, and Piazza di San Pietro. Purse snatchers work in teams on a single motor scooter or motorcycle: one drives and the other grabs.

Local Scams

"Gypsy" children and young women (often with babes in arms) are present around sights popular with tourists, especially the Colosseum, and are adept pickpockets. One modus operandi is to approach a tourist and proffer a piece of cardboard with writing on it. While the unsuspecting victim attempts to read the message on it, the children's hands are busy under it, trying to make off with wallets and valuables. If you see such a group (usually recognizable by their unkempt appearance), do not even allow them near you -- they are quick and know more tricks than you do. The phrases Vai via! (Go away!) and Chiamo la polizia (I'll call the police) usually keep them at bay. Yelling anything at them at the top of your voice can be a deterrent.

Women in Rome

The difficulties encountered by women traveling alone in Italy are often overstated. Younger women have to put up with much male attention, but it is rarely dangerous or hostile. Ignoring whistling and questions is the best way to get rid of unwanted attention. Do be careful of gropers on the Metro and on Buses 64 (Termini-Vatican) and 218 and 660 (Catacombs). They're known to take advantage of the cramped space. React like the locals: forcefully and loudly.

The country code for Italy is 39. The area code for Rome is 06. When dialing an Italian number from abroad, do not drop the initial 0 from the local area code.

Directory & Operator Information

For general information in English, dial 176. To place international telephone calls via operator-assisted service (or for information), dial 170 or long-distance access numbers.

International Calls

The country code for the United States and Canada is 1; for Australia, 61; for New Zealand, 64; and for the United Kingdom, 44.

Hotels tend to overcharge, sometimes exorbitantly, for long-distance and international calls. Use your AT&T, MCI, or Sprint card or buy an international phone card, which supplies a local number to call and gives a low rate. Or make your calls from Telefoni offices, designated telecom, where operators will assign you a booth, sell you an international telephone card, and help you place your call. You can make collect calls from any phone by dialing tel. 800/172444, which will get you an English-speaking AT&T operator. Rates to the United States are lowest round the clock on Sunday and 10 PM-8 AM, Italian time, on weekdays.

Local Calls

Phone numbers in Rome, and throughout Italy, don't have a set number of digits. All calls in Rome are preceded by the city code 06, with the exception of three-digit emergency numbers (113 is for general emergencies). Emergency numbers can be called for free from pay phones.

Long-Distance Calls

Throughout Italy, long-distance calls are dialed in the same manner as local calls: the city code plus the number. Rates vary, depending on the time of day, with the lowest late at night and early in the morning.

Long-Distance Services

AT&T, MCI, and Sprint access codes make calling long-distance relatively convenient, but you may find the local access number blocked in many hotel rooms. First ask the hotel operator to connect you. If the hotel operator balks, ask for an international operator, or dial the international operator yourself. One way to improve your odds of getting connected to your long-distance carrier is to travel with more than one company's calling card (a hotel may block Sprint, for example, but not MCI). If all else fails, call from a pay phone.

Access Codes

AT&T Direct (PHONE: 800/172-444).

MCI WorldPhone (PHONE: 800/172-401404 /).

Sprint International Access (PHONE: 800/172-405). From cell phones call 892-176.

Public Phones

Some pay phones accept only coins, others only carte telefoniche (phone cards) so it's smart to have both ready. You buy the card (values vary -- EUR2.50, EUR5, and so on) at Telefoni offices, post offices, newsstands (called edicole), and tobacconists. Tear off the corner of the card and insert it in the slot. When you dial, its value appears in the window. After you hang up, the card is returned so you can use it until its value runs out. The best card for calling North America or Europe is the EUR5 or EUR10 Europa card, which gives you a local number to dial and a pin number, and roughly 180 minutes and 360 minutes, respectively, of calling time.

Tourist Offices

Rome has an EPT (Ente Per Turismo) Tourist Information Office in the city center, and there are EPT booths at Termini Station and Leonardo da Vinci Airport. EPT provides information about cultural events, museums, churches, and other landmarks in the city. Its free map of the city is very good.

Information regarding travel outside of Rome can be found at the office of the ENIT (Italian Government Tourist Board).

In Rome

ENIT (Italian Government Tourist Board, Via Marghera 2-6, Termini. PHONE: 06/48899253 or 06/36004399).

EPT Tourist Information Office (Via Parigi 5-11, Termini. PHONE: 06/488991), open Monday-Saturday 9-7.

At Home

Italian Government Tourist Board (ENIT, 630 5th Ave., New York, NY, 10111, USA. PHONE: 212/245-4822, FAX: 212/586-9249, 401 N. Michigan Ave., Chicago, IL, 60611, PHONE: 312/644-0990; FAX: 312/644-3019. 12400 Wilshire Blvd., Suite 550, Los Angeles, CA, 90025, PHONE: 310/820-0098; FAX: 310/820-6357. PHONE: 514/866-7667; FAX: 514/392-1429. PHONE: 020/7408-1254; FAX: 020/7493-6695.).

The main tourist season in Rome starts shortly before Easter (when the greatest number of visitors flock to the city) and runs through October. In July and August, come if you like, but learn to do as the Romans do -- get up and out early, seek shady refuge from early afternoon heat, take a nap if you can, resume activities in the late afternoon, and stay up late to enjoy the nighttime breeze.

If you can avoid it, don't travel at all in Italy in August, when much of the population is on the move, especially around Ferragosto, the August 15 national holiday, when cities such as Rome are deserted and many restaurants and shops are closed. During the winter months, especially January-March, you have a better chance of getting into the major tourist attractions without having to wait in line.

Spring and fall are the best seasons in Rome, as far as the weather goes, though tourist attractions are crowded. It's neither too hot nor too cold, there's usually plenty of sun, and the famous Roman sunsets are at their best. Summers can be sweltering -- recent ones have been among the hottest and driest on record. Roman winters are relatively mild, with some persistent rainy spells.

Weather Chart

The following are the normal daily temperature ranges for Rome:

January 40-52°F (5-11°C); February 42-55°F (6-13°C); March 45-59°F (7-15°C); April 50-66°F (10-19°C); May 56-74°F (13-23°C); June 63-82°F (17-28°C); July 67-87°F (20-30°C); August 67-86°F (20-30°C); September 62-79°F (17-26°C); October 55-71°F (13-22°C); November 49-61°F (10-16°C); December 44-55°F (6-13°C).

Holidays

National holidays are New Year's Day; January 6 (Epiphany); Easter Sunday and Monday; April 25 (Liberation Day); May 1 (Labor Day or May Day); June 29 (Sts. Peter and Paul, Rome's patron saints); August 15 (Assumption of Mary, also known as Ferragosto); November 1 (All Saints' Day); December 8 (Immaculate Conception); Christmas Day and Boxing Day.