This area consists of a maze of narrow streets that is still, despite evident gentrification, one of the city's most authentically Roman neighborhoods. Literally translated, its name means "across the Tiber," and indeed Trastevere and the Trasteverini -- the neighborhood's natives -- are a breed apart. The area is hardly undiscovered, but among its self-consciously picturesque trattorias and trendy tearooms you'll also find old shops and dusty artisans' workshops in alleys festooned with laundry hung out to dry. One of the least affected parts of Trastevere centers on Piazza in Piscinula, where San Benedetto, the smallest medieval church in the city, stands opposite the restored medieval Casa dei Mattei. Stroll along Via dell'Arco dei Tolomei and Via dei Salumi, shadowy streets showing the patina of the ages.