Along with architect Carlo Maderno (1556-1629), Borromini helped make the splendid 17th-century Palazzo Barberini a residence worthy of Rome's leading art patron, Pope Urban VIII, who began the palace for his family in 1625. Inside, the Galleria Nazionale d'Arte Antica offers some fine works by Raphael and Caravaggio. Rome's biggest ballroom is here; its ceiling, painted by Pietro da Cortona, depicts Immortality bestowing a crown upon Divine Providence escorted by a "bomber squadron" -- to quote Sir Michael Levey -- of mutant bees. (Bees featured prominently in the heraldic device of the Barberini.) COST: EUR6.