Owner Francesco Tola transformed an old osteria into one of the most interesting restaurants in the area near Piazza del Popolo. Harking back to his Sardinian seaside upbringing, he has created a menu dedicated primarily to fish. Marinated red mullet and rockfish are delicate starters, and homemade gnocchi with shrimp and radicchio in a butter-and-sage sauce are unusually light. Roast sarago, a hard-to-find Mediterranean fish, served with artichokes and potatoes, is a favorite, as is the succulent lobster. Note that dessert soufflés need to be ordered at the beginning of the meal.