Giampaolo Gravina's restaurant in an artsy corner of the San Lorenzo neighborhood is popular with Romans from all over town. He works the dining room, offering suggestions from an impressive wine list, and his sister Gloria is in the kitchen turning out inventive cuisine inspired by the family's Umbrian and Sicilian roots. Octopus salad with asparagus and carrots, and spaghetti with swordfish, tomatoes, and capers are specialties.