Across the streetcar tracks not far from Termini, Tram Tram offers simple cooking in a bustling trattoria ambience, snugly packed with hungry Romans. Fish is a good bet here; try homemade orecchiette, a pasta specialty with clams and broccoli from Puglia, where the cook grew up. They also do fantastic squid and shrimp in a tasty fish broth with potatoes on the side, and veggie lasagna good enough to satisfy a carnivore. For dessert, try the crema di zabaglione (custard made with eggs and marsala wine).