What was once a simple trattoria on Tiberina Island is now a monument to its late founder, a beloved Roman personality. Two small dining rooms are lined with wood paneling and wine bottles, and although prices are higher than when Sora Lella presided, her son has ensured that the cooking is still 100% Roman. Daily specials are written on the chalkboard; you'll usually find homey meatballs, pasta e fagioli (a thick soup of short pasta and beans), and maialino all'antica roma (suckling pig with prunes, pine nuts, and raisins). Leave room for the quintessential Roman ricotta cake.