This cozy wineshop sets out tables and opens up for lunch only. Owner Anacleto Bleve and his sons make the rounds, proposing the latest cheese they have procured from the farthest reaches of Italy. Instead of a menu, there's Mamma at the counter with a good selection of mixed salads, smoked fish, and sliced meats, as well as a few soups and sformati (thick flans). You point, and she serves it up. There are always wines to drink by the glass, or you can choose from the several hundred bottles on the shelves that surround you.