The Troiani brothers came to Rome in the late 1980s and ever since have been leaders of a small circle of top Italian gourmands. Their inventive fare can be characterized as Italian cuisine revisited -- classic dishes made from the best ingredients, given a unique, elegant tweak. The raw "lacquered" tuna and the foie gras are luscious starters, and Roman broccoli soup is a classic that's disappeared from other menus. For secondi, the pigeon is exquisitely cooked, and the fish are all first-rate. Desserts are delicious, if a bit restrained, service is excellent, and the wine selection, although pricey, would impress any connoisseur. Reservations essential.