It's off the tourist path (near Porta Pia), but a visit here is rewarded with quintessential Italian cucina -- and that means market-fresh ingredients, especially seafood, light homemade pastas, and choice olive oil. The tables in the small antiques-filled dining room are set with immaculate white linen, sparkling crystal, and silver. Seafood dishes vary, but tagliolini all'aragosta (thin noodles with lobster sauce) is the house specialty; also consider the seasonal porcini mushrooms (a secret recipe). The wine list is predominantly Italian but includes some French and California choices.