Addresses in Paris are fairly straightforward: there is the number, the street name and, often, the location in one of Paris's 20 arrondissements (districts); for instance, Paris 75010 or, simply, the last two digits, 10, each of which indicates that the address is in the 10th. Due to its large size, the 16 arrondissement has two numbers assigned to it: 75016 and 75116. For the layout of Paris's arrondissements, consult the map at the end of this section. They are laid out in a spiral, beginning from the area around the Louvre (1 arrondissement), then moving clockwise through the Marais, the Quartier Latin, St-Germain, and then out from the city center to the outskirts until it reaches Menilmontant/Père-Lachaise (20 arrondissement).

Occasionally you may see an address with a number plus bis -- for instance, 20 bis rue Vavin. This indicates the next entrance or door down from 20 rue Vavin.

Note that in France you enter a building on the ground floor, or rez-de-chaussée (RC or 0), and go up one floor to the first floor, or premier étage. General address terms used in this book to keep in mind are: av. (abbreviation for avenue); bd. (abbreviation for boulevard); carrefour (crossway); cours (promenade); passage (passageway); quai (quay/wharf/pier); rue (street); sq. (abbreviation for square).

Bus travel in Paris has always had the reputation of catering to that very small population of people who actually have the time to sit in the bus and read a good book as it snails its way through impossible Parisian traffic. All that changed in 2002 when special protected bus lanes were created throughout Paris -- more than 41 km (25 mi) of them in every arrondissement except the 13. Travel time has been cut, on the average, by a whopping 50%; for example, a trip from Saint-Michel to the place de la Concorde now takes 9 minutes instead of the usual 25. This, of course is to discourage the stubborn Parisian population from taking their cars to work and creating impossible congestion in the city, but it can benefit you, too: Buses are a scenic, convenient, and efficient way to see the city, and the new ones are equipped with air-conditioning -- something to think about on those sweltering August days.

Paris buses are green and white; route number and destination are marked in front, and major stopping places along the sides. The brown bus shelters, topped by red-and-yellow circular signs, contain timetables and route maps; note that buses must be hailed at these larger bus shelters, as they service multiple lines and routes. Smaller stops are designated simply by a pole bearing bus numbers.

Of Paris's 250 bus routes, three main lines circle the grands boulevards and are known as the petite ceinture (small belt). These constitute bus numbers PC 1, PC 2, and PC 3, which run in a continuous circle covering the major portes, or entryways, into the city center. More than 200 other bus routes run throughout Paris, reaching virtually every nook and cranny of the city. During weekdays and Saturday, buses run every five minutes (as opposed to the 15- to 20-minute wait on Sunday and national holidays). One ticket will take you anywhere within the city; once you get off at any point, that ticket is no longer valid. Bus transport is ideal for the elderly, women with children (easy access with strollers), and anyone who likes to take the scenic route. Needless to say, seats are more difficult to find during rush hours.

A map of the bus system is on the flip side of every métro map, in all métro stations, and at all bus stops. Maps are also found in each bus. A recorded message announces the name of the next stop. To get off, press one of the red buttons mounted on all the silver poles that run the length of the bus and the arrêt demandé (stop requested) light directly behind the driver will light up. Use the rear door to exit.

The Balabus, a public orange-and-white bus that runs between May and September, gives an interesting 50-minute tour around the major sights. You can use your Paris-Visite, Carte Orange, or Mobilis pass, or one to three bus tickets depending on how far you ride. The route runs from La Défense to the Gare de Lyon.

Fares & Schedules

Regular buses accept métro tickets, your best bet is to buy a carnet of 10 tickets for EUR9.60 at any métro station, or you can buy a single ticket on board (exact change appreciated) for EUR1.30. If you have individual tickets, you should be prepared to punch your ticket in the red-and-gray machines located at the entrance of the bus. You need to show (but not punch) weekly, monthly, and Paris-Visite/Mobilis tickets to the driver. Tickets can be bought on buses, in the métro, or in any bar/tabac store displaying the lime-green métro symbol above its street sign.

Most routes operate from 7 AM to 8:30 PM (or 20h30 to the French); some continue to midnight. After 8:30 PM you must either take the métro or one of the 18 "Noctambus" lines (indicated by a brown owl symbol at bus stops). These bus lines operate hourly (1:30 AM-5:30 AM) between Châtelet and various nearby suburbs; they can be stopped by hailing them at any point on their route. Paris-Visite/Mobilis passes are accepted on the Noctambus. A regular ticket costs EUR2.30 and allows for one transfer.

For additional bus information, contact RATP (Pl. de la Madeleine, Paris, 75008. PHONE: 08-36-68-41-14, www.ratp.com, 53 bis quai des Grands Augustins, 75006.).

Car Rentals

Rates in Paris begin at approximately $80 a day and $250 a week for an economy car with air-conditioning, manual transmission, and unlimited mileage. This does not include tax on car rentals, which is 19.6% or, if you are picking one up at the airport, the airport tax. To save money, make reservations before you go; you can generally get a much better deal. Note that driving in Paris is best avoided, and parking is very difficult to find. You're better off renting a car only when you want to take excursions out of the city.

Renting a car through a local French agency has a number of disadvantages, the biggest being price, as they simply cannot compete with the larger international companies. These giants combine bilingual service, the security of name recognition, extensive services (such as 24-hour hot lines), and fully automatic vehicles. Easycar, an Internet-only rental service, offers the wonderful Smartcar, a tiny two-seater Mercedes perfect for zipping around the city. SNAC, a France-based agency, can be useful if you are interested in luxury cars (convertible BMWs) or large family vans (Renault Espace, for example).

In Paris

Easycar (www.easycar.com).

SNAC (82 rue Lauriston, Paris, France. PHONE: 01-44-05-33-99, www.automobiles-snac.fr)

At Home

Alamo (PHONE: 800/522-9696, www.alamo.com).

Avis (PHONE: 800/331-1084; 800/879-2847 in Canada; 0870/606-0100 in the U.K.; 02/9353-9000 in Australia; 09/526-2847 in New Zealand, www.avis.com).

Budget (PHONE: 800/527-0700; 0870/156-5656 in the U.K., www.budget.com).

Dollar (PHONE: 800/800-6000; 0124/622-0111 in the U.K.; where it's affiliated with Sixt; 02/9223-1444 in Australia, www.dollar.com).

Hertz (PHONE: 800/654-3001; 800/263-0600 in Canada; 020/8897-2072 in the U.K.; 02/9669-2444 in Australia, www.hertz.com).

National Car Rental (PHONE: 800/227-7368; 020/8680-4800 in the U.K., www.nationalcar.com).

Emergency Services

If your car breaks down on an expressway, pull your car as far off the road as possible, set your emergency indicators, and, if possible, put the emergency triangle located in the trunk of your car at least 30 yards behind your car to warn oncoming traffic; then go to a roadside emergency telephone. These phones put you in direct contact with the police, automatically indicating your exact location, and are available every 3 km (2 mi). If you have a breakdown anywhere else, find the nearest garage or contact the police. There are also 24-hour assistance hot lines valid throughout France (available through rental agencies and supplied to you when you rent the car), but do not hesitate to call the police in case of any roadside emergency, for they are quick and reliable and the phone call is free. There are special phones just for this purpose on all highways -- just pick up the phone and dial 17.

Petrol

Gas is expensive and prices vary enormously; anything from EUR.85 to EUR1.40 per litre. Credit cards are accepted in every gas station. There are very few self-service petrol stations in Paris.

Parking

Finding parking in Paris is very difficult. Meters and ticket machines (pay and display) are common: make sure you have a supply of EUR.50 coins. If you're planning on spending a lot of time in Paris with a car, buy a parking card (carte de stationnement) for EUR15 or EUR30 at any café displaying the red "Tabac" sign. This card works like a credit card in the parking meters, allowing you to avoid the inconvenience of finding exact change. After depositing enough money (or using your parking card) in the ticket machine, you will receive a receipt; be sure to display the receipt on the inside window of the vehicle, the dashboard on the passenger side being best.

Note that in August, parking is free in certain residential areas. However, only parking meters with a dense yellow circle on them indicate free parking in August; if you do not see the circle, pay up. Parking tickets are expensive, and there is no shortage of the blue-uniformed parking police. Parking lots, indicated by a blue sign with a white P, are usually underground and are generally expensive (due to the 24-hour surveillance systems).

Requirements

In France, you drive on the right and yield to drivers coming from streets to the right. However, this rule does not necessarily apply at roundabouts, where you should watch out for just about everyone. You must wear your seat belt, and children under 12 may not travel in the front seat. Speed limits are 130 kph (80 mph) on expressways (autoroutes), 110 kph (70 mph) on divided highways (routes nationales), 90 kph (55 mph) on other roads (routes), 50 kph (30 mph) in cities and towns (villes et villages).

In France your own driver's license is acceptable. An International Driver's Permit is not necessary unless you are planning on a long-term stay; you can get one from the American or Canadian Automobile Association, and, in the United Kingdom, from the Automobile Association or Royal Automobile Club. You must be 18 years old to drive, but there is no top age limit for those whose faculties are intact. To rent a car you must be 21 or older and have a major credit card, although you will be permitted to rent a car for a EUR17 per day supplement if you're under 25.

Road Conditions

France's roads are classified into five types, numbered and prefixed A (autoroute), N (route nationale), D (route départmentale), and the smaller C, or V. Roads marked A (autoroutes) are expressways. There are excellent links between Paris and most French cities. When trying to get around Ile-de-France, it is often difficult to avoid Paris -- just try to steer clear of rush hours (7-9:30 AM and 4:30-7:30 PM). A péage (toll) must be paid on most expressways: the rate varies but can be steep. Certain booths allow you to pay with your credit card.

Rules of the Road

A native quirk that takes some getting used to is the famous priorité à droite law that states that all drivers must yield to any vehicle coming from the right -- to be safe, slow down at all crosswalks and make sure no one is coming from the right.

Some important traffic terms and signs to note: Sortie (Exit); Sens Unique (One Way); Stationnement Interdite (No Parking); Impasse (Dead End). Blue rectangular signs indicate a highway; triangles carry illustrations of a particular traffic hazard; speed limits are indicated in a circle with the maximum speed circled in red.

Taxi rates are based on location and time. Daytime rates, A (7 AM-7 PM), within Paris are EUR.55 per kilometer (½ mi), and nighttime rates, B, are around EUR.90 per kilometer. Suburban zones and airports, C, are EUR1.10 per kilometer. There is a basic hire charge of EUR2 for all rides, a EUR.90 supplement per piece of luggage, and a EUR.75 supplement if you're picked up at an SNCF station. Waiting time is charged at EUR19.85 per hour. The easiest way to get a taxi is to ask your hotel or a restaurant to call a taxi for you, or go to the nearest taxi stand (you can find one every couple of blocks); cabs with their signs lit can be hailed but are annoyingly difficult to spot (and they are not all a single, uniform color). Chauffeurs are required to take a fourth passenger for an average supplement of EUR2.30. It is customary to tip the driver about 10%.

Taxi Companies

Airport Taxi (PHONE: 08-25-16-66-66).

Airtaxi (PHONE: 08-91-70-25-50).

Taxi Bleu (PHONE: 08-25-16-10-10).

Taxi G7 (PHONE: 01-47-39-47-39).

Métro stations are recognizable either by a large yellow M within a circle or by the distinctive curly green Art Nouveau railings and archway bearing the full title (Métropolitain). Taking the métro is the most efficient way to get around Paris.

Fourteen métro and two RER (Réseau Express Régional, or the Regional Express Network) lines crisscross Paris and the suburbs, and you are seldom more than 500 yards from the nearest station. The métro network connects at several points in Paris with the RER, the commuter trains that go from the city center to the suburbs. RER trains crossing Paris on their way from suburb to suburb can be great time-savers because they make only a few stops in the city (you can use the same tickets for the métro and the RER within Paris).

It's essential to know the name of the last station on the line you take, as this name appears on all signs. A connection (you can make as many as you like on one ticket) is called a correspondance. At junction stations, illuminated orange signs bearing the name of the line terminus appear over the correct corridors for each correspondance. Illuminated blue signs marked sortie indicate the station exit. Note that tickets are valid only inside the gates, or limites.

Métro service starts at 5:30 AM and continues until 1 AM, when the last train on each line reaches its terminus. Some lines and stations in Paris are a bit risky at night, in particular Lines 2 and 13. But in general, the métro is relatively safe throughout, providing you don't walk around with your wallet hanging out of your back pocket or travel alone late at night.

Fares & Schedules

All métro tickets and passes are valid not only for the métro but also for all RER and bus travel within Paris. Métro tickets cost EUR1.30 each; a carnet (10 tickets for EUR9.30) is a better value. The best deal is the unlimited usage carte orange ticket, sold according to zone. Zones 1 and 2 cover the entire métro network; tickets cost EUR13.25 a week or EUR44.35 a month. If you plan to take suburban trains to visit places in Ile-de-France, consider a four-zone (Versailles, St-Germain-en-Laye; EUR21.65 a week) or six-zone (Rambouillet, Fontainebleau; EUR28.10 a week) ticket. For these weekly/monthly tickets, you need a pass (available from rail and major métro stations) and a passport-size photograph (many stations have photo booths).

A one-day (Mobilis) and the two- to five-day (Paris-Visite) tickets assure unlimited travel on the entire RATP network: métro, RER, bus, tram, funicular (Montmartre), and noctambus (night bus). Unlike the coupon jaune, which is good from Monday morning to Sunday evening, Mobilis and Paris-Visite passes are valid starting any day of the week and give you discounts on a limited number of museums and tourist attractions. The price is EUR8.38 (one-day), EUR13.70 (two-day), EUR18.30 (three-day), and EUR26.70 (five-day) for Paris only. Rates for children ages 4-11 are approximately half of these prices. Suburbs such as Versailles and St-Germain-en-Laye cost EUR23.60 (one-day). EuroDisney costs EUR23.60, EUR34.30, EUR42.70, and EUR53.35 respectively for a one- to four-day pass.

Access to métro and RER platforms is through an automatic ticket barrier. Slide your ticket in and pick it up as it pops out. Be certain to keep your ticket during your journey; you'll need it to leave the RER system and in case you run into any green-clad ticket inspectors, who will impose a hefty fine if you can't produce your ticket.

For additional métro information, contact RATP (Pl. de la Madeleine, 8, Paris, France. www.ratp.fr, 53 bis quai des Grands-Augustins, 6, PHONE: 08-36-68-41-14), open daily 9-5.

Banks & Offices

On weekdays, banks are open generally 9:30 AM-4:30 or 5 PM (note that the Banque de France closes at 3:30), and some banks are also open Saturday 9-5 as well. In general, government offices and businesses are open 9-5.

Gas Stations

Petrol stations in the city are generally open 7:30 AM-8 PM, though those near the city's portes (or principal entranceways) near the périphérique (beltway) are open 24 hours a day.

Museums & Sights

Most museums are closed one day a week -- usually either Monday or Tuesday -- and on national holidays. Generally, museums and national monuments are open from 10 AM to 5 or 6 PM. A few close for lunch (noon-2) and are open Sunday only in the afternoon. Many of the large museums have one nocturne (nighttime) opening per week, when they are open until 9:30 or 10 PM. The Louvre is closed Tuesday and stays open late Wednesday until 9:45 PM. The Centre Pompidou is closed Tuesday and has late opening hours daily until 10 PM. The Musée d'Orsay is closed Monday and stays open until 9:30 PM Thursday. All national museums are free to the public the first Sunday of every month.

Pharmacies

Pharmacies are generally open Monday-Saturday 8:30 AM-8 PM. Nearby pharmacies that stay open late, or for 24 hours, or Sunday, are listed on the door.

Shops

Generally, large shops are open from 9:30 or 10 AM to 7 or 8 PM Monday to Saturday and remain open through lunchtime. Many of the large department stores stay open until 10 PM Wednesday or Thursday. Smaller shops and many supermarkets often open earlier (8 AM) but take a lengthy lunch break (1 PM-3 PM) and generally close around 8 PM; small food shops are often open Sunday mornings 9 AM-1 PM. There is always a small corner grocery store that stays open late, usually until 11 PM, if you're in a bind for basic necessities like diapers, bread, cheese, and fruit (and perhaps the unnecessary bottle of chilled champagne or the disposable plastic rain hat, circa 1950). Note that prices are substantially higher in such outlets than in the larger supermarkets. Most shops close all day Sunday, except in the Marais (where shops that stand side by side on rue des Francs Bourgeois, from antiques dealers to chic little designers, jewelry to home decoration, open their doors to welcome hordes of Sunday browsers); the Bastille, the Latin Quarter, and the Ile de la Cité also have shops that open Sunday.

Arriving in France

If you're coming from outside the European Union (EU), you may import duty free: (1) 200 cigarettes or 100 cigarillos or 50 cigars or 250 grams of tobacco (twice that if you live outside Europe); (2) 2 litres of wine and, in addition, (a) 1 litre of alcohol over 22% volume (most spirits) or (b) 2 litres of alcohol under 22% volume (fortified or sparkling wine) or (c) 2 more litres of table wine; (3) 50 ml of perfume and 250 ml of toilet water; (4) 200 grams of coffee, 100 grams of tea; and (5) other goods to the value of EUR46 (EUR15.3 for those under 15).

If you're arriving from an EU country, you may be required to declare all goods and prove that anything over the standard limit is for personal consumption. But there is no limit or customs tariff imposed on goods carried within the EU.

Any amount of euros or foreign currency may be brought into France, but foreign currencies converted into euros may be reconverted into a foreign currency only up to the equivalent of EUR769.

For additional information, contact:

Direction des Douanes (16 rue Yves Toudic, 10, Paris, France. PHONE: 01-40-40-39-00).

The electrical current in Paris is 220 volts, 50 cycles alternating current (AC); wall outlets take continental-type plugs, with two round prongs.

Australia

Australian Embassy 4 rue Jean-Rey, 15, Paris, 75724. PHONE: 01-40-59-33-00. Métro: Métro: Bir-Hakeim.

Canada

Canadian Embassy 35 av. Montaigne, 8, Paris. PHONE: 01-44-43-29-00. Métro: Métro: Franklin-D.-Roosevelt.

New Zealand

New Zealand Embassy 7 ter rue Léonardo da Vinci, 16, Paris. PHONE: 01-45-00-24-11. Métro: Métro: Victor-Hugo.

United Kingdom

British Embassy 35 rue du Faubourg-St-Honoré, 8, Paris. PHONE: 01-44-51-31-00. Métro: Métro: Madeleine.

United States

U.S. Embassy 2 rue St-Florentin, 1, Paris. PHONE: 01-43-12-22-22 in English; 01-43-12-23-47 emergencies. Métro: Métro: Concorde.

Ambulance (PHONE: 15).

Fire Department (PHONE: 18).

Police (PHONE: 17).

These numbers are toll-free and can be dialed from any phone.

Call the police (tel. 17) if there has been a crime or an act of violence. On the street, some French phrases that may be needed in an emergency are: Au secours! (Help!), urgence (emergency), samu (ambulance), pompiers (firemen), poste de station (police station), médicin (doctor), and hôpital (hospital).

The French National Health Care system has been organized to provide fully equipped, fully staffed hospitals within 30 minutes of every resident in Paris. For signage, hospitals are indicated by a rectangular blue box with a white cross. This guidebook does not list the major Paris hospitals, as the French government prefers an emergency operator to make the judgment call and assign you the best and most convenient option for your emergency. Note that if you are able to walk into a hospital emergency room by yourself, you are often considered "low priority" and the wait can be interminable.

If time is of the essence, the best thing to do is to call the fire department (tel. 18); a fully trained team of paramedics will usually arrive within five minutes. You may also dial for a Samu ambulance (tel. 15); there is usually an English-speaking physician available who will help you assess the situation and either dispatch an ambulance immediately or advise you as to your best course of action. It's important to check with your insurance company before you leave for your trip to make sure that you are covered internationally.

Doctors & Dentists

In a non-urgent situations, do what the French do and call SOS Doctor or SOS Dental services; like magic, a certified, experienced doctor or dentist arrives at the door well within an hour, armed with an old leather doctor case filled with the essentials to diagnose and treat the patient (at an average cost of EUR55). He or she may or may not be bilingual, but will, at worst, have a rudimentary understanding of English. This is a very helpful 24-hour service to use for common benign illnesses that need to be treated quickly for comfort, such as high fevers, toothaches, or stomach flus (which seem to have the unfortunate habit of announcing themselves late at night).

SOS Dentists (PHONE: 01-43-37-51-00).

SOS Doctors (PHONE: 01-47-07-77-77).

Hospitals

The American Hospital and the Hertford British Hospital both have 24-hour emergency hot lines with bilingual doctors and nurses who can provide advice.

The American Hospital (63 bd. Victor-Hugo, Neuilly. PHONE: 01-46-41-25-25).

The Hertford British Hospital (3 rue Barbès, Levallois-Perret. PHONE: 01-46-39-22-22).

Hot Lines

FACTS-Line I (PHONE: 01-47-23-80-8), open Monday, Wednesday, and Friday 6-10 PM, offers HIV/AIDS support in English.

SOS Help (PHONE: 01-47-23-80-80), open daily 3-11 PM, is an English-language crisis and information hot line.

Late-Night & 24-Hour Pharmacies

For small problems, go to a pharmacy, marked by a green neon cross. Pharmacists are authorized to administer first aid and recommend over-the-counter drugs, and they can be very helpful in advising you in English or sending you to the nearest English-speaking pharmacist.

Dhéry (Galerie des Champs, 84 bd. des Champs-Élysées, 8, Paris, France. PHONE: 01-45-62-02-41) is open 24 hours.

Pharmacie des Arts (106 bd. Montparnasse, 14, Paris, France.) is open daily until midnight.

Pharmacie Internationale (5 pl. Pigalle, 9, Paris, France. PHONE: 01-48-78-38-12).

Pharmacie Matignon (rue Jean-Mermoz, at the Rond-Point de Champs-Élysées, 8, Paris, France.) is open daily until 2 AM.

When meeting someone for the first time, whether in a social or a professional setting, it is appropriate to shake hands. Other than that, the French like to kiss -- they kiss close friends, men kiss men, women kiss women, French children kiss other French children. For the Parisians, it's two quick smacks, one on each cheek.

The French like to look at people, that's why they created cafés and fashion -- they'll look at your shoes, your watch, they'll check out what you're wearing, what you're reading -- what they will not do is maintain steady eye contact or smile. If a stranger of the opposite sex smiles at you, it is best to do as the French do and give a blank, haughty, cutting look before turning away. If you smile back, you might find yourself in a Pepé Le Pew-type situation.

Some basic pleasantries in French include: "bonne journée," have a nice day; "bonne soirée," have a nice evening; "enchanté," nice to meet you; "s'il vous plaît," please; and "je vous en prie," you're welcome.

When visiting a French home, don't expect to be invited into the kitchen or to take a house tour. The French have a very definite sense of personal space, and you'll be escorted to what are considered the guest areas. If you're invited to dinner, be sure to bring a gift, such as wine, champagne, flowers, or chocolates.

When dining out, note that the French only fill their wine glasses until they are half full -- it's considered bad manners to fill it to the brim. They never serve themselves before serving the rest of the table. They never order coffee or tea with dessert, always after. They always keep their hands above the table, and most usually keep their elbows off the table. They often divide the check evenly between couples or individuals, even if someone only ordered a salad and others had a full meal. Bread is broken, never cut, and placed next to the plate, never on the plate.

Business Etiquette

In a business situation, greetings are typically made with a friendly handshake. A suit is appropriate for business meetings for both men and women. Professional presentation is extremely important: casual Fridays are unheard of, sneakers are saved for weekends. The French don't like overfamiliarity in any form; use formal surname greetings unless a mutual decision has been made to use first names.

Bike Tours

A number of companies organize bike tours around Paris and its environs (Versailles, Chantilly, and Fontainebleau) for about EUR12-EUR30 per person.

For more information, contact:

Butterfield & Robinson (70 Bond St., Toronto, M5B 1X3, Canada. PHONE: 416/864-1354 or 800/678-1147).

Bikenroller (38 rue Fabert, 7, Paris, France. PHONE: 01-45-50-38-27, www.bikenroller.fr).

Maison Roue Libre (1 passage Mondétour, 1, Paris, France. PHONE: 01-48-15-28-88, www;citefutee.com).

Paris Velo (2 rue Fer-á-Moulin, 5, Paris, France. PHONE: 01-43-37-59-22, www.paris- velo-rent-a-bike.fr).

Paris à Vélo, C'est Sympa (37 bd. Bourdon, 4, Paris, France. PHONE: 01-48-87-60-01).

Boat Tours

Boat trips along the Seine run throughout the day and evening for a cost of EUR6-EUR15. Many of the tours include lunch or dinner for an average cost of EUR46-EUR90. Reservations for meals are usually essential, and some require jacket and tie.

Bateaux Mouches (Pont de l'Alma, 8, Paris, France. PHONE: 01-42-25-96-10, www.bateauxmouches.com) boats depart from the Pont de l'Alma (Right Bank) 10-noon, 2-7, and 8:30-10:30. Lunch is served at 1 PM and dinner at 8:30 PM.

Bateaux Parisiens-Tour Eiffel (Pont d'Iéna, 7, Paris, France. PHONE: 01-44-11-33-44, www.bateauxparisiens.com) boats depart from the Pont d'Iéna (Left Bank) every half hour in summer and every hour in winter, starting at 10 AM. The last boat leaves at 9 PM (11 PM in summer). There are lunch and dinner cruises.

Bat-O-Bus (Pont d'Iéna, 7, Paris, France. PHONE: 01-44-11-33-44 or 01-44-11-33-99, www.ratp.com) trips along the Seine, without commentary, offer the advantage of being able to get on and off at any one of seven stops along the river, including the Eiffel Tower, Musée d'Orsay, St. Germain-des-Prés, the Louvre, Notre-Dame, Hôtel de Ville, and the Champs-Élysées. Get a one-day pass for EUR10, or buy a two-consecutive-day pass for EUR12. Note that it operates from May 1 to October 31, departs every half hour between 10 and 6.

Canauxrama (5 bis quai de la Loire, 19, Paris, France. www.canauxrama.com, Bassin de l'Arsenal, 12, PHONE: 01-42-39-15-00) organizes leisurely canal tours in flat-bottom barges along the St-Martin and Ourcq canals in East Paris. Departures from the quai de la Loire are at 9:15 and 2:45, and departures from the Bassin de l'Arsenal (opposite 50 boulevard de la Bastille) are at 9:30 and 2:30. The trip lasts about 2½ hrs. Reservations should be made.

Paris Canal (19 quai de la Loire, 19, Paris, France. PHONE: 01-42-40-96-97) runs 3-hr trips with bilingual commentary between the Musée d'Orsay and the Parc de La Villette, between April and mid-November only. Reservations are essential.

Vedettes du Pont Neuf (Ile de la Cité, 1, Paris, France. PHONE: 01-46-33-98-38) boats depart every half hour from square du Vert Galant, 10-noon, 1:30-6:30, and 9-10:30 from March to October.

Yachts de Paris (Port de Javel, Paris, France. PHONE: 01-44-54-14-70, www.yachtsdeparis.com) organizes 2½-hr "gourmand cruises" (for about EUR135) year-round.

Bus Tours

For a 2-hr orientation tour by bus, the standard price is about EUR23.

Cityrama (4 pl. des Pyramides, 1, Paris, France. PHONE: 01-44-55-61-00), one of the largest bus-tour operators, runs standard tours of the city, as well as several minibus excursions that are more intimate (and expensive) than the standard tours.

Paris Vision (214 rue de Rivoli, 1, Paris, France. PHONE: 01-42-60-31-25) is another of the largest bus-tour operators in the city.

Paris Bus (PHONE: 01-42-30-55-50) gives tours in a London-style double-decker bus. You can catch the bus at any of nine pickup points; tickets cost EUR21 and allow you unlimited use for two days. For EUR23 the "Paris Open Tour" gives you two (consecutive) days of freedom to visit Paris in a double-decker bus with an open top. The bilingual tour lasts about 2 hrs, but you can get on and off as you please, since the bus stops at more than 20 spots along a circular route. These tours are slow and lose their charm after approximately the first 20 minutes, especially with the long and rather exasperating multilingual commentary.

For a more interesting, authentic, and economical trip, why not take a regular Parisian bus for a mere EUR1.30 per ticket? A copy of the timetables for these tours is available from the main Paris Tourist Office.

RATP (Pl. de la Madeleine, 8, Paris, France. 53 bis quai des Grands-Augustins, 6, PHONE: 08-36-68-41-14), the Paris Transit Authority, also gives guide-accompanied excursions in and around Paris by bus.

Helicopter Tours

For a spectacular aerial view of Paris, Delta Lima (PHONE: 01-40-68-01-23) offers a helicopter tour; it takes off from Toussus le Noble (15 minutes from Paris). Tours last 35 minutes and cost EUR147 per person.

Minibus Tours

Paris Bus and Paris Major Limousine organize tours of Paris and environs by luxury minibuses (for 4 to 15 passengers) for a minimum of 4 hrs. The price varies from EUR260 to EUR397. Reservations are essential.

Paris Bus (22 rue de la Prévoyance, Vincennes. PHONE: 01-43-65-55-55, www.touring-france.com).

Paris Major Limousine (6 pl. de la Madeleine, 8, Paris, France. PHONE: 01-44-52-50-00, www.parislimousine.fr).

Walking Tours

The team at Paris Walking Tours (PHONE: 01-48-09-21-40, www.paris-walks.com) offers a wide selection of tours, from neighborhood visits to museum tours and theme tours such as "Hemingway's Paris," "The Marais," "Montmartre," and "The Latin Quarter. " A 2-hr tour costs about EUR10.

Black Paris Tours (PHONE: 01-46-37-03-96) offers tours exploring the places made famous by African-American musicians, writers, artists, and political exiles. Tours include a 4- to 5-hr walking-bus-métro tour (EUR80) that offers first-time visitors a city orientation and a primer in the history of African-Americans in Paris. Other options include "Montmartre/Pigalle: The 1920s Harlem of Paris" and tours of top African and soul-food restaurants.

A list of walking tours is also available from the Caisse Nationale des Monuments Historiques (Bureau des Visites/Conférences, Hôtel de Sully, 62 rue St-Antoine, 4, Paris, France. PHONE: 01-44-61-21-70), in the weekly magazine Pariscope, and in L'Officiel des Spectacles, which lists walking tours under the heading "Conférences" (most are in French, unless otherwise noted).

The French may appear prickly at first to English-speaking visitors. But it usually helps if you make an effort to speak a little French. A simple, friendly bonjour (hello) will do, as will asking if the person you are greeting speaks English (Parlez-vous anglais?). Be patient, and speak English slowly.

Post offices, or PTT, are scattered throughout every arrondissement and are recognizable by a yellow "La Poste" sign. They are usually open weekdays 8 AM-7 PM, Saturday 8 AM-noon.

Locations include:

Main office (52 rue du Louvre, 1, Paris, France.), open 24 hours seven days a week.

Champs-Élysées office (10 rue Balzar, 8, Paris, France.), Monday to Saturday, open until 7 PM.

Overnight Services

Sending overnight mail from Paris is relatively easy. Besides DHL, Federal Express, and UPS, the French post office has an overnight mail service called Chronopost that has special prepaid boxes for international use (and also boxes specifically made to mail wine). All agencies listed can be used as drop-off points and all have information in English.

Major Services

DHL (6 rue des Colonnes, 7, Paris, France. PHONE: 01-55-35-30-30, www.dhl.com, 59 rue Iéna, 16, PHONE: 01-45-01-91-00).

Federal Express (63 bd. Haussmann, 8, Paris, France. PHONE: 01-40-06-90-16, www.fedex.com/fr, 2 rue 29 Juillet, 1, PHONE: 01-49-26-04-66; 08-00-12-38-00 information in English about pickups; www.ups.com.).

UPS (34 bd. Malesherbes, 8, Paris, France. 107 rue Réaumur, 2, PHONE: 08-00-87-78-77).

Postal Rates

Airmail letters to the United States and Canada cost EUR.67 for 20 grams, EUR1.25 for 40 grams, and EUR1.98 for 60 grams. Letters to the United Kingdom cost EUR.46 for up to 20 grams, as they do within France. Postcards cost EUR.46 within France and EU countries and EUR.67 to the United States and Canada. Stamps can be bought in post offices and cafés displaying a red "Tabac" sign.

Receiving Mail

If you're uncertain where you'll be staying, have mail sent to American Express (if you're a card member) or to "poste restante" at any post office.

Like many capital cities, Paris is expensive; the good news is that if you avoid the obvious tourist traps, you can find plenty of affordable places to eat and shop. Prices tend to reflect the standing of an area in the eyes of Parisians; much-sought-after residential arrondissements such as the 7, 16, and 17 -- of limited visitor interest -- are far more expensive than the student-oriented, much-visited Latin Quarter. The tourist area where value for money is most difficult to find is the 8 arrondissement, on and around the Champs-Élysées. Places where you can generally be certain to shop, eat, and stay without overpaying include the streets surrounding Montmartre (not the Butte, or hilltop, itself); the St-Michel/Sorbonne area on the Left Bank; the mazelike streets around Les Halles and the Marais in central Paris; in Montparnasse, south of the boulevard; and the Bastille, République, and Belleville areas of eastern Paris.

Note that in cafés, bars, and some restaurants it's less expensive to eat or drink standing at the counter than it is to sit at a table. Two prices are listed -- au comptoir (at the counter) and à salle (at a table) -- and sometimes a third for the terrace.

Expect to pay EUR6.10-EUR10.70 for a short taxi ride. Museum entry is EUR3.05-EUR6.90, though there are hours or days of the week when admission is reduced or free.

ATMs

ATMs are one of the easiest ways to get euros. Although transaction fees may be higher abroad than at home, banks usually offer excellent wholesale exchange rates through ATMs. You may, however, have to look around for Cirrus and Plus locations; it's a good idea to get a list of locations from your bank before you go. Note, too, that you may have better luck with ATMs if you're using a credit card or debit card that is also a Visa or MasterCard rather than just your bank card.

To get cash at ATMs in Paris, your PIN must be four digits long, If you are having trouble remembering your pin, do not try more than twice, because at the third attempt, the machine will eat your card and you will have to go back the next morning to retrieve it. Note, too, that you may be charged by your bank for using ATMs overseas; inquire at your bank about charges.

Currency

January 1, 2002, saw the introduction of euro coins and notes. The former local currency, the franc, ceased to be legal tender in mid-February, 2002. All transactions are now made in euros.

Euro notes come in denominations of EUR500, EUR200, EUR100, EUR50, EUR20, EUR10 and EUR5. The euro is divided into 100 cents, and coins are available as EUR2 and EUR1 and 50, 20, 10, 5, 2, and 1 cents. The euro is also used in Austria, Belgium, Finland, Germany, Greece, Ireland, Italy, Luxembourg, the Netherlands, Portugal, Spain, Martinique, St. Barths, and St. Martin.

Taxes

All taxes must be included in affixed prices in France. Prices in restaurants and hotel prices must by law include taxes and service charges: If these appear as additional items on your bill, you should complain.

VAT (value-added tax, known in France as TVA), at a standard rate of 19.6% (33% for luxury goods), is included in the price of many goods, but foreigners are often entitled to a refund. To be eligible for the VAT, an item (or items) must be purchased in one day in one place and must equal or exceed EUR182. You cannot combine purchases from different shops to total the required amount, or combine purchases from various days to total the required amount. The VAT for services (restaurants/theater, etc.) is not refundable. When making a purchase, ask for a VAT refund form and find out whether the merchant gives refunds -- not all stores do, nor are they required to. Have the form stamped like any customs form by customs officials when you leave the country or, if you're visiting several European Union countries, when you leave the EU. Be ready to show customs officials what you've bought (pack purchases together, in your carry-on luggage); budget extra time for this. In France, you then put the letter into any one of the mailboxes at the airport -- postage is already paid and there's usually a mailbox near the TVA counter. Your refund will arrive either as a credit to your credit card or as a check in U.S. dollars. You can also go to the French consulate with your plane tickets, your VAT forms, and the items you purchased to receive the stamp, but it will cost you $21; there is a three-month (after date of purchase) time limit.

A refund service can save you some hassle, for a fee. Global Refund is a Europe-wide service with 190,000 affiliated stores and more than 700 refund counters -- located at every major airport and border crossing. Its refund form is called a Tax Free Check. The service issues refunds in the form of cash, check, or credit-card adjustment, minus a processing fee. If you don't have time to wait at the refund counter, you can mail in the form instead.

VAT Refunds

Global Refund (99 Main St., Suite 307, Nyack, NY, 10960, USA. PHONE: 800/566-9828, FAX: 845/348-1549, www.globalrefund.com).

Tipping

Bills in bars and restaurants are required by law to include service, but it is customary to round out your bill with some small change unless you're dissatisfied. The amount varies, from EUR.15 for a beer to EUR1.50-EUR2.30 after a meal. In expensive restaurants, it's common to leave an additional 5% of the bill on the table.

Tip taxi drivers and hairdressers about 10% of the bill. Give theater and cinema ushers EUR.25-EUR.50. In some theaters and hotels, cloakroom attendants may expect nothing (watch for signs that say pourboire interdit -- tipping forbidden); otherwise, give them EUR.75. Washroom attendants usually get EUR.30, though the sum is often posted.

If you stay more than two or three days in a hotel, it is customary to leave something for the chambermaid -- about EUR1.50 per day. Expect to pay about EUR1.50 (EUR.75 in a moderately priced hotel) to the person who carries your bags or who hails you a taxi. In hotels providing room service, give EUR.75 to the waiter (this does not apply if breakfast is routinely served in your room). If the chambermaid does some pressing or laundering for you, give her EUR.75-EUR1.50 on top of the bill. If the concierge has been very helpful, it is customary to leave a tip of EUR8-EUR16, depending on the type of hotel and the level of service.

Service-station attendants get nothing for pumping gas or checking oil but EUR.75 or EUR1.50 for checking tires. Train and airport porters get a fixed sum (EUR.90-EUR1.50) per bag. Museum guides should get EUR1.50-EUR3 after a guided tour. It is standard practice to tip bus drivers about EUR1.50 after an excursion.

When traveling internationally, carry your passport even if you don't need one (it's always the best form of I.D.) and make two photocopies of the data page (one for someone at home and another for you, carried separately from your passport). If you lose your passport, promptly call the nearest embassy or consulate and the local police.

Entering France

All citizens of Australia, Canada, New Zealand, the United States, and the United Kingdom, even infants, need only a valid passport to enter France for stays of up to 90 days. If you lose your passport, promptly call the nearest embassy or consulate and the local police.

Passport Offices

The best time to apply for a passport, or to renew your old one, is in fall or winter. Before any trip, check your passport's expiration date, and, if necessary, renew it as soon as possible.

Australian Citizens

Australian Passport Office (PHONE: 131-232, www.passports.gov.au).

Canadian Citizens

Passport Office (Department of Foreign Affairs and International Trade, Ottawa, Ontario, K1A 0G3. PHONE: 819/994-3500 or 800/567-6868, www.dfait-maeci.gc.ca/passport).

New Zealand Citizens

New Zealand Passport Office (PHONE: 04/474-8100 or 0800/22-5050, www.passports.govt.nz).

U.K. Citizens

London Passport Office (PHONE: 0870/521-0410, www.passport.gov.uk).

U.S. Citizens

National Passport Information Center (PHONE: 900/225-5674 calls are 35¢ per minute for automated service; $1.05 per minute for operator service, travel.state.gov/passport_services.html).

Use of public toilet facilities in cafés and bars is usually reserved for customers. Bathrooms are often downstairs and are usually unisex, which may mean walking by a men's urinal to reach the cubicle. Turkish-style toilets -- holes in the ground surrounded by porcelain pads for your feet -- are still found. Stand as far away as possible when you press the flushing mechanism in order to avoid water damage to your shoes. In certain cafés the lights will not come on in the bathroom until the cubicle door is locked. These lights work on a three-minute timer to save electricity. Simply press the button again if the lights go out.

Clean public toilets are available in fast-food chains, department stores, and public parks. You can also find pay-per-use toilet units on the street, which require EUR.30 (small children, however, should not use these alone, as the self-sanitizing system works with weight-related sensors that might not detect a child's presence). There are bathrooms in the larger métro stations and in all train stations for a cost of EUR.15-EUR.30.

Paris is one of the safest big cities in the world, good news for the traveling lone female. Although times are changing, it is still felt that women traveling alone are fair game for troublesome behavior. Certain neighborhoods can still pose problems, thanks to the night trade that goes on around Les Halles and St-Denis and on boulevard Clichy in Pigalle. Some off-the-beaten-path neighborhoods -- particularly the outlying suburban communities around Paris -- may warrant extra precaution.

Note that smiling automatically out of politeness is not part of French culture and can be quickly misinterpreted. If you encounter a problem, don't be afraid to show your irritation. When in doubt, stick to the boulevards, memorize the time of the last métro train to your station, ride in the first car by the conductor, and just use your common sense. Paris is a giant metropolis, so it is always best to be streetwise and alert.

The country code for France is 33. The first two digits of French numbers are a prefix determined by zone: Paris and Ile-de-France, 01; the northwest, 02; the northeast, 03; the southeast, 04; and the southwest, 05. Pay close attention to numbers beginning with 08. Calls that begin with 08 followed by 00 are toll-free, but calls that begin with 08 followed by 36 -- like the information lines for the SNCF for example -- cost EUR.35 per minute, so be careful. Numbers that begin with 06 are reserved for cell phones.

Note that when dialing France from abroad, drop the initial 0 from the telephone number (all numbers listed in this book include the initial 0, which is used for calling numbers from within France). To call a telephone number in Paris from the United States, dial 011-33 plus the phone number, but minus the initial 0 listed for the specific number in Paris. In other words, the local number for the Louvre is 01-40-20-51-51. To call this number from New York City, dial 011-33-1-40-20-51-51. To call this number from within Paris, dial 01-40-20-51-51. To call France from the United Kingdom, dial 00-33, then dial the number in France minus the initial 0 of the specific number.

Directory & Operator Information

To find a number in France, dial 12 for information. For international inquiries, dial 00-33 plus the country code. These calls have a fixed rate of EUR.60.

Another source of information is the Minitel, an on-line network similar to the Internet. You can use one free in most post offices. To access the on-line phone book, hit the appel (call) key, then type the name you are looking for, and hit envoi (return). It is also useful for tracking down services: tap in piscine (swimming pool) under activité (activity), for example, and it will give you a list of all the pools in Paris. Go to other lines or pages by hitting the suite (next) key. Newer models will connect automatically when you hit the book-icon key. To disconnect, hit fin (end).

International Calls

To make a direct international call out of France, dial 00 and wait for the tone; then dial the country code (1 for the United States and Canada, 44 for the United Kingdom, 61 for Australia, and 64 for New Zealand) and the area code (minus any initial 0) and number.

Telephone rates are actually decreasing in France because the France Telecom monopoly now has some stringent competition. As in most countries, the highest rates fall between 8 AM and 7 PM and average out to a hefty EUR.25 per minute to the United States, Canada, and the closer European countries including Germany and Great Britain. Rates are greatly reduced from 7 PM to 8 AM with an average EUR.12 per minute.

To call home with the help of an operator, dial 00-33 plus the country code. There is an automatic EUR6.80 service charge.

Telephone cards are sold that enable you to make long-distance and international calls from any phone. Don't hesitate to invest in one if you plan on making calls from your hotel, as hotels often accumulate service charges and also have the most expensive rates.

Long-Distance Calls

To call from region to region within France, dial the full 10-digit number, including the initial 0.

Access codes for long-distance carriers include:

AT&T Direct (PHONE: 08-00-99-00-11; 08-00-99-01-11; 800/222-0300 information).

MCI WorldPhone (PHONE: 08-00-99-00-19; 800/444-4444 information).

Sprint International Access (PHONE: 08-00-99-00-87; 800/793-1153 information).

Public Phones

Public telephone booths can almost always be found in post offices, métro stations, bus stops, and in most cafés, as well as on the street.

Practically all French pay phones are operated by télécartes (phone cards), which you can buy from post offices, tabacs, magazine kiosks, and any métro station. These phone cards will save you money and hassle, since it is almost impossible to find phones that take change these days. There are as many phone cards these days as bakeries, so to be safe, request the télécarte international, which, despite its name, allows you to make either local or international calls and offers greatly reduced rates. Instructions are in English and the cost is EUR8 for 60 units and EUR16 for 120 units. You may also request the simple télécarte, which allows you to make calls in France (the cost is EUR8 for 50 units; EUR15 for 120 units). You can also use your credit card in much the same way as a télécarte.

Since all local numbers in Paris and the Ile-de-France begin with a 01, you must dial the full 10-digit number, including the initial 0. A local call costs EUR.11 for every three minutes.

Tourist Offices

In Paris

Espace du Tourisme d'Ile-de-France (Carrousel du Louvre, 99 rue de Rivoli, Paris, 75001. PHONE: 08-03-81-80-00 or 01-44-50-19-98).

Office du Tourisme de la Ville de Paris (127 bd. des Champs-Élysées, Paris, France. PHONE: 01-49-52-53-54; 01-49-52-53-56 recorded information in English).

Office du Tourisme et de Congrès Paris (127 bd. des Champs-Élysées, Paris, 75008, France. PHONE: 08-92-68-31-12; EUR.30 per minute).

At Home

France On-Call (PHONE: 410/286-8310 weekdays 9-7, www.francetourism.com).

French National Tourist Office:

Chicago (676 N. Michigan Ave., Chicago, IL, 60611.).

Los Angeles (9454 Wilshire Blvd., Suite 715, Beverly Hills, CA, 90212. PHONE: 310/271-6665, FAX: 310/276-2835) New York City (444 Madison Ave., 16th fl., New York, NY, 10022, USA. PHONE: 212/838-7800, FAX: 212/838-7855, info@francetourism.com).

Canada (1981 av. McGill College, Suite 490, Montréal, Québec, H3A 2W9. PHONE: 514/288-4264, FAX: 514/845-4868, mfrance@mtl.net).

U.K (178 Piccadilly, London, W1V OAL. PHONE: 020/76399-3500, FAX: 020/76493-6594).

Australia (25 Bligh St., Sydney, NSW 2000. PHONE: 02/9231-5244, FAX: 02/9221-8682).

The major tourist season in France stretches from Easter to mid-September, but Paris has much to offer in every season. If you're dreaming of Paris in the springtime, May is your best bet, not rainy March and April, regardless of what songs say about the latter. Paris in the early spring can be disappointingly damp, though it's relatively tourist-free; May and June are delightful, with good weather and plenty of cultural activities and other attractions. July and August can be sultry, stuffy, and uncomfortable, intensified by air pollution. Moreover, many theaters and some of the smaller restaurants and shops close for the entire month of August. If you're undeterred by the hot weather, you'll notice a fairly relaxed atmosphere around the city, as this is the month when most Parisians are on vacation and the city is pleasantly deserted.

September is ideal. Cultural life revives after the summer break, and sunny weather often continues through the first half of October. The ballet and theater are in full swing in November, the weather is part wet and cold, part bright and sunny. December is dominated by the fêtes de fin d'année (end-of-year festivities) and a busy theater, ballet, and opera season that runs well into January. Throughout the winter months, especially February, skies are usually grey and weather is windy and damp, although there's very little snow.

Weather Chart

The following are the normal daily temperature ranges for Paris:

January 34-43°F (1-6°C); February 34-45°F (1-7°C); March 39-54°F (4-12°C); April 43-60°F (6-16°C); May 49-68°F (10-20°C); June 55-73°F (13-23°C); July 58-76°F (14-25°C); August 58-75°F (14-24°C); September 53-70°F (12-21°C); October 46-60°F (8-16°C); November 40-50°F (5-10°C); December 36-44°F (2-7°C).

Holidays

With 11 national holidays (jours feriés) and five weeks of paid vacation, the French have their share of repose. In May there is a holiday nearly every week, so be prepared for stores, banks, and museums to shut their doors for days at a time. If a holiday falls on a Tuesday or Thursday, many businesses will faire le pont (make the bridge) and close on the intervening Monday or Friday, as well. But some exchange booths in tourist areas, small grocery stores, restaurants, cafés, and bakeries usually remain open. Bastille Day (July 14) is observed in true French form. Celebrations begin on the evening of the 13th, when city firemen open the doors to their stations, often classed as historical monuments, to host their much-acclaimed all-night balls and finish the next day with the annual military parade and air show.

January 1 (New Year's Day); Easter Monday (March or April); May 1 (Labor Day); May 8 (VE Day); May 24 (Ascension); Pentecost Monday (May or June); July 14 (Bastille Day); August 15 (Assumption); November 1 (All Saints); November 11 (Armistice); December 25 (Christmas).